Valve lapping questions – compressor suggestion, lapping compound, is it even needed?

[Andrew Vanis]

Originally Posted by tkent02
Check with gasoline in the combustion chambers, if it's not leaking



How?.



Found this which was insightful. will try that.......

• Clean and assemble the head and valve components. Fill the intake and exhaust posts with gasoline to check for leaks. If any leaks occur, inspect the valve seat and face for burrs or other things that could prevent the valve from sealing.

[Steve]

Yeah, what’s another $80 OEM ($30 aftermarket) but if I don’t need to touch the valves, I’m inclined to leave in what is in there. ... That would require reseating the cylinders no? Pricewise not much $11 gasket and 4x$5 orings. Really inclined to leave this one alone considering the cylinder work and the issues of maybe not seating the rings right.

The process of removing the head has already disturbed the seal on the base gasket, most likely rendering it useless, but you won't know until you get the engine all back together and find that it leaks. Like you say, it's only $11 (now), but it's another $200 gasket kit if you need to do it over.

Originally Posted by tkent02
Check with gasoline in the combustion chambers, if it's not leaking



How?.

Turn the head upside down with all the valves installed and closed. Pour some gasoline into the cumbustion chamber, let it sit for a while. If the valves leak, the gas level in the chamber will go down.

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[blowerbike]

I was going to not us the cups/sticks and either use the tube over the stem and pull/turn or the hose on the end of the drill a'la the manual on Basscliff's site http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/storag...LAP_VALVES.pdf

sounds like a plan to me...

[Steve]

I was going to offer my suggestion how to do it until I clicked on the link.

Those are MY grubby hands in those pictures.

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[Andrew Vanis]

The process of removing the head has already disturbed the seal on the base gasket, most likely rendering it useless, but you won't know until you get the engine all back together and find that it leaks. Like you say, it's only $11 (now), but it's another $200 gasket kit if you need to do it over..

OK, let.s say to do the base gasket, what does that involve as far as dealing with he cylinders? Ring compressor? If I.m that far, should I replace the rings and hone he cylinders? If I just put the cylinder head back with the old rings what other issues am I causing?Also, my base gasket shows some o-rings, do those get replaced if the base gasket does? See schematic link aboveLet me know because at this time I.m thinking of doing the gas test on the valves and if that passes put the thing back together take my chances on the base gasket and stop this trip down the rabbit hole.

[Andrew Vanis]

I was going to offer my suggestion how to do it until I clicked on the link.

Those are MY grubby hands in those pictures.

.

FYI, your video cited no longer plays

[Nessism]

With only 14k on the engine there is no urgency to do the rings, although some people just do them as a matter of course when the engine is apart.

I would most definitely pull the cylinder and replace the base gasket while the head is off.

Be sure to use OEM Suzuki gaskets if you value oil tightness.

[Andrew Vanis]

so whet am I in for if I take off the cylinder? how hard is it to get the cylinders back in and do I need ny special tools?

[Nessism]

Andrew, it's not hard to install the cylinder. Please do some research, there are countless threads on how to pinch in the rings and make ring compressor tools.

[Steve]

FYI, your video cited no longer plays

Yes, that has been noted, but that is up to BassCliff and his website skills to fix.

I see him pop in occasionally, but probably not often enough or long enough to note some of the problems that have popped up with his site.

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