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    Wrong oil drain bolt causing leaks?

    I went to change the oil on the bike and I couldn't get the oil drain bolt to tighten against the pan. It would screw in until seated but after a turning a little more, the bolt would loosen. If I kept turning more it would begin to tighten again, then loosen like the threads were stripped. This was my third oil change (gas in the oil) and never encountered this before. I have always used the same washer on the bolt. I tightened as best I could, filled it with oil, and went for a ride. After parking it and returning an hour later, I had a puddle of oil under the bike.

    I looked at the parts fiche thinking about ordering a new washer/gasket. I noticed the pic of the bolt didn't look like mine. After finding an actual pic on Ebay, I realized mine was different. The inside of my bolt is hollow and the bolt has 4 slits in it. I don't have a pic of my bolt and this is the best my Paint skills could do (see pic at the bottom). It looks like these new hollow point rounds except there's a gap between the "petals".


    Do you think this weird bolt could be causing my leak? I've heard of rounding off the bolt's head, but never stripping the threads of the oil drain. Is this bolt designed to not strip whatever it's screwed into? Guessing the PO grabbed it off another bike. I'm hoping a normal bolt of the correct size from the hardware will fix the leak, but trying to get some ideas before I drain the oil again.

    oil drain bolt.jpg
    Jordan

    1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
    2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1973 BMW R75/5

    #2
    Someone substituted a different drain bolt, most likely because the oil pan threads stripped. You need to fix the threads properly one way or another. There are various methods including drilling and tapping for an oversize bolt, installing an insert, or even using a self tapping repair drain screw. The options are up to you to figure out but one way or another you need to fix it or the bolt can fall out and dump all the oil on the ground.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Someone substituted a different drain bolt, most likely because the oil pan threads stripped. You need to fix the threads properly one way or another. There are various methods including drilling and tapping for an oversize bolt, installing an insert, or even using a self tapping repair drain screw. The options are up to you to figure out but one way or another you need to fix it or the bolt can fall out and dump all the oil on the ground.
      Personally I'd just get a new oil pan. Easy to replace and gives you an opportunity to clean out the pickup screen and look for anything bad.
      http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

      JTGS850GL aka Julius

      GS Resource Greetings

      Comment


        #4
        I'd pull the pan and then survey the damage. Problem comes in with removing the exhaust system. If the header bolts haven't been removed recently they will likely be stuck, and a LOT of people don't have enough savvy to get them out without busting a few off. This is one of those things where people hamfist their way into trouble. OP, consider this your warning...
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          Not what I was hoping to hear. Giving my outside work area, I'd prefer to swap out the whole pan rather than fix the problem on the bike. I will look into the options for repairing the threads.

          Oil pans are reasonable on Ebay. I've read tons of posts about broken exhaust studs and have been fortunate to have avoided removing the exhaust. Because this it's an outdoor job, it could be a chore.

          I guess i have to weigh the options. I learned about a rubber drain plug and their short term use. Maybe i can use one to get by for a few weeks.
          Jordan

          1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
          2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
          1973 BMW R75/5

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by hannibal View Post
            Not what I was hoping to hear. Giving my outside work area, I'd prefer to swap out the whole pan rather than fix the problem on the bike. I will look into the options for repairing the threads.

            Oil pans are reasonable on Ebay. I've read tons of posts about broken exhaust studs and have been fortunate to have avoided removing the exhaust. Because this it's an outdoor job, it could be a chore.

            I guess i have to weigh the options. I learned about a rubber drain plug and their short term use. Maybe i can use one to get by for a few weeks.
            Fixing the stripped out threads on the oil pan isn't that big of a deal. All you need is a threaded steel insert. Thread that into the oil drain, it will be a very tight fit, that is what you want. Make sure the bottom of the insert is flush with the outside bottom of the pan. Then take a small dremel grinder and cut two slots on either side of the insert inside the pan. This lets the oil to drain fully. Go to a Napa, Autozone etc and find a new threaded plug for the thread steel insert, get a couple copper crush washers. Install and tighten, no more worries of ever stripping out those threads again.
            sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
            1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
            2015 CAN AM RTS


            Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

            Comment


              #7
              "...looks like these new hollow point rounds..."

              Hollow points are new?
              1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

              2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

              Comment


                #8
                Maybe you didn't understand what was written, I will try to state it plainly:

                Yes, replacing the pan is probably the best way to fix it, but in order to remove the pan, you WILL have to remove the exhaust system. Removing the exhaust system is one of the most problematic things you can do to your bike. The nuts that hold the pipes to the head will be stuck. Many people will simply apply more force, which will break the stud. Breaking the stud will require trying to remove it. Depending on which stud is broken, you might have to remove the head. Removing the head from the bike will require a $200 gasket set. Still with me?

                Go to Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, whatever your favorite auto parts store, get an oversize, self-tapping drain plug. There are several from which to choose, I don't remember if the correct one is M14 x 1.25 or M14 x 1.5. It is actually just a bit bigger diameter (maybe M14.5) and will cut the existing threads just a little deeper. A dab of grease on the cutting threads will hold any shavings for easy removal before installing the bolt with a new gasket.

                You can get that new plug in a +1 or a +2 size, start with the +1. If that's not quite tight enough, get the +2. They are cheap, just a couple of bucks, at most, certainly cheaper and less frustrating than a gasket set.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
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                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  Maybe you didn't understand what was written, I will try to state it plainly:

                  Yes, replacing the pan is probably the best way to fix it, but in order to remove the pan, you WILL have to remove the exhaust system. Removing the exhaust system is one of the most problematic things you can do to your bike. The nuts that hold the pipes to the head will be stuck. Many people will simply apply more force, which will break the stud. Breaking the stud will require trying to remove it. Depending on which stud is broken, you might have to remove the head. Removing the head from the bike will require a $200 gasket set. Still with me?

                  Go to Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, whatever your favorite auto parts store, get an oversize, self-tapping drain plug. There are several from which to choose, I don't remember if the correct one is M14 x 1.25 or M14 x 1.5. It is actually just a bit bigger diameter (maybe M14.5) and will cut the existing threads just a little deeper. A dab of grease on the cutting threads will hold any shavings for easy removal before installing the bolt with a new gasket.

                  You can get that new plug in a +1 or a +2 size, start with the +1. If that's not quite tight enough, get the +2. They are cheap, just a couple of bucks, at most, certainly cheaper and less frustrating than a gasket set.

                  .
                  I understood what's involved in replacing the pan. What I didn't know about were the options for repairing the threads on the bike. Thanks for the info.

                  I pulled the current plug and noticed "1/2 T" on it. I thought maybe it just needed a M14 bolt so I picked up a standard M14 and an oversize M14. Both dropped into the threads without much contact. I'm guessing the PO installed a 1/2 (12.7mm) triple oversize. I'm on a quest to find an M14 D.O. and M14 T.O. to see how they fit. My local store doesn't have them and the Dorman brand ones are $20 on Amazon. I'm reading about threaded inserts as a plan B.
                  Jordan

                  1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                  2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1973 BMW R75/5

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Is the oil pan made of aluminum?
                    Jordan

                    1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                    2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                    1973 BMW R75/5

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hannibal View Post
                      Is the oil pan made of aluminum?
                      Yes it is.
                      http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                      JTGS850GL aka Julius

                      GS Resource Greetings

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I found a single oversize plug from Dorman that I was able to use. FYI, a single oversize bolt from different companies may be different sizes. The Needa oversize plug was actually just under 14mm.

                        Thanks again for the help.
                        Jordan

                        1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                        2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                        1973 BMW R75/5

                        Comment

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