Cam chain and adjuster

[Steve]

When end I get the new chain I am going to do a detailed comparison to see how the "stretch" is made. For example is it the links that stretch? Highly unlikely, I think it comes from the rollers wearing down, which means those rollers will eventually fail. I saw a picture of a used chain compared to a new chain and that's what looked to be worn the most.

Just like the chain that goes to the rear wheel, the links do not stretch. It is the interface between the pins/rollers/links that gets worn. The ends of the pins wear down a bit, the rollers might wear a bit, the holes in the links get a bit larger. Any one of them is not much, but do that for over 100 links, it adds up quickly.

The cam chain will wear the same way, but it does have the advantage of somewhat constant lubrication and relative cleanliness going in its favor, so actual wear tends to be rather minimal. It is quite common for stock engines to have well over 100,000 miles on them and the cam chain will still be in-spec. Was your chain used with high-lift cams or have heavy-duty springs on the valves?

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[Fjbj40]

Just like the chain that goes to the rear wheel, the links do not stretch. It is the interface between the pins/rollers/links that gets worn. The ends of the pins wear down a bit, the rollers might wear a bit, the holes in the links get a bit larger. Any one of them is not much, but do that for over 100 links, it adds up quickly.

The cam chain will wear the same way, but it does have the advantage of somewhat constant lubrication and relative cleanliness going in its favor, so actual wear tends to be rather minimal. It is quite common for stock engines to have well over 100,000 miles on them and the cam chain will still be in-spec. Was your chain used with high-lift cams or have heavy-duty springs on the valves?

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The problem, I believe, came from the fact that the dreaded PO had removed it. And upon reinstallation did what a lot of us have found. The set screw was not released!

So how long was this bike driving around with the chain slapping madly and getting stretched even more because of the slack, tight, slack, tight cycles it was going through.

I paid $500 for the bike, I heard it running and that was it. It had a loud ticking noise from the top of #4 cylinder in the rocker area. Upon disassembly I found a flattened locating dowel for the rocker cover being mashed by #4 intake rocker arm. I figured that was the source of noise, until I started the disassembly of the engine.

[tom203]

" it would be problematic to stick something on the end as the thing that was stuck on the end could come off. "

A small cap spot welded on plunger end would be very secure- it's just pushing against the chain guide. Sure beats dismantling the engine now,cuz it's summer!

[Fjbj40]

" it would be problematic to stick something on the end as the thing that was stuck on the end could come off. "

A small cap spot welded on plunger end would be very secure- it's just pushing against the chain guide. Sure beats dismantling the engine now,cuz it's summer!

No hurry with this one, plus, I still have my 1000 to drive

[Fjbj40]

So, new cam chain installed, cams reset, engine fired right up. Smooth and quiet, the way it should be.

So the old chain was still approx .040" shorter than the max of 157.8mm for 20 links as specified in the manual, the new one was approx .060" shorter than the old one.

So the old one was approx .600" longer than the new one, based on the fact the chain is 200 links long.

So when Suzuki says as long as 20 links is not over 157.8 mm you can reuse it, they are incorrect, IMOP. From this point fwd I will replace the cam chain, for $100, as a standard practice, unless it measures at least .060 shorter than the limit stated in the manual.

Sorry I am talking mm and inches, I did it all in mm during the inspection, just use to inches in my trade and is easier.

Cheers

I will try and load the pictures comparing the chain later today.