81 gs750 rod bearings?

[Guest]

Hey all!
so I've searched and searched, and idk if I'm looking for the wrong thing or not on the forum but I have a question about my rod bearings.
so about a month ago I took the bike for a ride and I didn't check the oil. Well, I think you can guess what happened. One bearing spun in the rod, one was about to, and the other two are worn. I was on bike bandit to order some new ones and I ran into some trouble. On the schematic they show you, it shows something like 4-3 for both the upper and lower part of the bearing. When I scroll down to order it, it has 4-1 4-2 4-3 and 4-4. I assume this is because sometimes they machine the crank down another size because of imperfections and things like that. Now on my crank it has "3" pasted right next to all of the journals. Before I ordered the 4-3 bearings, I just wanted to get advice from the experts here to make sure I don't spend money on the wrong thing and wreck my crank.
so my question is, am I on the right track? Am I safe to order the bearing that says 3 or are the numbered like that per rod?

[Nessism]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Please download the factory Suzuki service manual from the above link. Inside it explains such details. No disrespect but I'm scratching my head in wonderment regarding taking on an engine rebuild project without this sort of critical information.

BTW, Parts Outlaw is MUCH cheaper than Bike Bandit. They are a little slower though.

BTW2, that family of 750 engines have oiling system problems. The unoffical factory fix from back in the day is to shim the oil pressure relief spring with some small washers. There is more information on this topic in the archives so you may want to dig it out in order to avoid more engine damage in the future. Also research gaskets. OEM gaskets are vastly superior to aftermarket, some of which are downright criminal in their crappiness.

[Marine0623]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Please download the factory Suzuki service manual from the above link. Inside it explains such details. No disrespect but I'm scratching my head in wonderment regarding taking on an engine rebuild project without this sort of critical information.

BTW, Parts Outlaw is MUCH cheaper than Bike Bandit. They are a little slower though.

BTW2, that family of 750 engines have oiling system problems. The unoffical factory fix from back in the day is to shim the oil pressure relief spring with some small washers. There is more information on this topic in the archives so you may want to dig it out in order to avoid more engine damage in the future. Also research gaskets. OEM gaskets are vastly superior to aftermarket, some of which are downright criminal in their crappiness.

I do have the service manual but it didn't cross my mind to search around in it for that! Thanks for the tip. And I have some small engine experience and im also accompanied by my father who has been a mechanic for quite some time and has rebuilt engines so he keeps a close eye when I am tearing things apart

[blowerbike]

FYI
when a bearing spins you then have a smaller/not round rod journal and an over size rod big end.
crank needs welded and turned or replaced and the rod needs replaced.
a lot of people install better made GS engines into their 750 frames.
good luck

[Nessism]

FYI
a lot of people install better made GS engines into their 750 frames.
good luck

Translation: slam a 16V GS1100E engine in that bad boy!

[Marine0623]

Oh god how much of a project would that be

[blowerbike]

16v. 1100 engine is a bolt in.
8v. 1000 engine is close to a bolt in.
the 80-82 750 engines are known rod bearing eaters...

[AMK]

1100's rock!