Sad how a silly myth can persist.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by storm 64 View PostDefinitely don't want to start a oil debate. But since it's kind of already started. I would like to ask Steve a question, with all do respect. Why do you use the synthetic motor oil in your motorcycles? What is the big advantage in running synthetic motor oil in our Suzuki engines... In my experience with synthetic motor oil, it always caused a leak within short time. The last experience, was with my BMW. I switched to Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil. 1000 miles later the base gasket started leaking... With my oil burners, I change the oil in the fall (end of riding season) and keep them topped off during the summer. They always has clean oil in them.☺Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by storm 64 View PostWhy do you use the synthetic motor oil in your motorcycles? What is the big advantage in running synthetic motor oil in our Suzuki engines...
As to "synthetic will make your engine leak": hogwash. If your engine leaks with synthetic, it would also leak with 'regular' (dino) oil, if the dino oil hadn't clogged up trying to get through the leak. Synthetic oils typically have stronger detergent packages in them, so they tend to wash away at the clogged pores, uncovering any leaks that have been there all along, but clogged.
I gave you the history of most of my GSes, for the most part, they are oil tight. My wife's clutch release arm leaks a bit. I have a new seal for it, just haven't bothered to change it yet. Synthetic oil did not make it leak, 68,000+ miles did. I have a similar leak on my Wing. The seal and bushing for the shifter shaft have worn a bit, allowing a bit of oil to escape. Oil caused? Nope, just some extra strain caused by improper linkage on a heel/toe shifter. I need to adjust the linkage to get it right, then change the bushing.
One other small advantage of synthetic oil is the 5w- viscosity. The thinner oil will flow quicker through the small oil passages, giving better lubrication on a cold start-up.
I do leave it in there just a little bit longer than some people do, but maybe not enough to offset the extra cost, so it does cost me a penny or two per mile more than dino oil for the duration of an oil change, but that is a small price to pay for what I feel is peace of mind.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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OK, no diagnosis results tonight.
I was headed out to the shop, got a text message from another GSer who was on his way with a broken clutch cable. I told him I had some cables, but did not know what all I had, come on over. While waiting for him, ANOTHER GSer stopped by, had a dead battery just down the street. Diagnosed that one to a dead stator, which he will order.
Bottom line, two extra bikes in the shop right now. It looks like they are BREEDING.
Just got back from taking one of them home, it's bedtime now.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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My 92 GSXR1100 engine developed a slipping clutch. The RPM readings I got at 55MPH and 70MPH were higher than what the Gearing Commander indicated they should be. It was plainly slipping under hard acceleration in 2nd and 3rd.
I was looking at replacing the springs and friction plates when I read a warning in the description of the EBC Kevlar friction plates; “Not for use with full synthetic oil”. So I drained the Mobile 1 synthetic out, and added Valvoline Motorcycle oil.
The clutch is gripping very well now, I detect no slipping anytime and the RPM readings match what the Gearing Commander indicates they should be at select speeds in 5th.
This is a salvage engine, I have no idea what kind of plates the PO put in there.1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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There is politics and religion but these never come close to oil in terms of controversy. No one can keep still in the presence of an oil thread.
Aside from being of a stellar slipperiness what changes in hydrodynamics occur in synth oil to make it such a clutch destroyer?
Or were your steels and fibres already on the way out?1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300s
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""Synthetic oils typically have stronger detergent packages in them, so they tend to wash away at the clogged pores uncovering any leaks that have been there all along but clogged""
That's all I need to hear to convince me to stay with non synthetic motor oil. I don't want the stronger detergents washing away at my pores causing leaks. 👍My Motorcycles:
22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
79 1000e (all original)
82 850g (all original)
80 KZ 650F (needs restored)
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Originally posted by storm 64 View Post""Synthetic oils typically have stronger detergent packages in them, so they tend to wash away at the clogged pores uncovering any leaks that have been there all along but clogged""
That's all I need to hear to convince me to stay with non synthetic motor oil. I don't want the stronger detergents washing away at my pores causing leaks.
Going with what we "may" have learned here about synthetics, along with a couple previous posts, lets take it to its logical conclusions... It may have flow easier so it may find leaks easier. It may have more detergents so it may clean away small pore leaks. It is more resistant to heat breakdown (and thus turning to carbon particles), so the little pieces of carbon that might ordinarily gather in small places and block leaks are less likely to form and more likely to wash away. So all of this points out one thing to me... you've got a leaky gasket that needs to be changed. lol!
I mean lets face it, if it is just some pieces of crud floating around a motor keeping a gasket from leaking, then its time to fix the gasket.. and change the oil. lol!1982 GS1100E "Jolene"
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But my motorcycles don't have any leaks, so what gaskets do I need to change? I'm not going to switch to synthetic motor oil with stronger detergents to find out... My motorcycles are loving life with regular dino Rotella and annual oil changes...Last edited by storm 64; 07-12-2016, 11:17 AM.My Motorcycles:
22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
79 1000e (all original)
82 850g (all original)
80 KZ 650F (needs restored)
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annual oil change? dear lord you cannot be driving much. Higher mileage change intervals are nice but an MC really does not get much chance to benefit from truly bitter cold starts. I remember years ago when I first used synth in the 80s. -30celsius is hard on starters. I left my oil jug in the truck overnight and in the am was amazed to find the liquid was almost water like in spite of the freezing temps. Dino would have run like molasses.
What is replacing a few seals compared to a drive train or gears or pistons and rings though?1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300s
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On my Goldwing I have had some oil testing done -
I sent samples off to Blackstone Labs to get the reports.
One test was on Synthetic oil with about 4000 miles on it. (Came back near perfect-they recommended a longer run)
The next test was 6800 miles (Came back as all good still but ready to be changed soonish)
Now that is a liquid cooled engine so the extremes are less - but full synthetic for longer runs is a good idea in my opinion.
STEVE -- Yes my experience also indicates that synthetic with better flow properties will REVEAL a leak sooner than Dino oil (detergents also?)
But the leak was already there...
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Originally posted by storm 64 View PostBut my motorcycles don't have any leaks, so what gaskets do I need to change? I'm not going to switch to synthetic motor oil with stronger detergents to find out... My motorcycles are loving life with regular dino Rotella and annual oil changes...My Motorcycles:
22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
79 1000e (all original)
82 850g (all original)
80 KZ 650F (needs restored)
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Originally posted by storm 64 View PostCricket Cricket...
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Steve View PostHuh? Not following you on that one, Norm.
.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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I read a very long article years ago on synthetic oil vs. Dino, and for some reason, the one thing I remember is that, synthetic oil molecules are all the same size, which is kinda small. Dino oil, however has a variety of molecule sizes. What this meant to the guy writing the article is that since synthetic molecules are all the same smallish size, they flow better...and are able to make their way through potential leak spots, where Dino oil may not.Current Bikes:
2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)
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