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Oil Leak on my GS1000G

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    Oil Leak on my GS1000G

    I have a small oil seep at the base of my cylinder head on my 81 GS1000G. Its on the right side next to the engine block. Has anyone tried fixing one of these small leaks without having to tear everything down and replacing the gasket. Like some kind of sealant or so something similar,

    #2
    There is no 'magic in a can' that can fix that other than a top end tear down. Lots of guys ride with oil leaks as long as it's not pouring, just keep an eye on the oil.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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      #3
      Did you try to torque the bolts down to the proper setting? In my 81 owners manual it says to check at 600, 4000, 7500, 1100, and 15000 mile intervals. I found several loose bolts that lead to leaks on my 83. tightening them took care of it.
      Probably too simple, but maybe.

      Roger
      Roger

      '83 GS850G Daily rider
      '82 GS1100GK Work in (slow) progress

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        #4
        When you "check" the torque on a head bolt (actually a nut on a stud), the best way is to loosen it at least 1/4 turn, then tighten it to the proper torque.

        If you simply try to tighten the nut to spec, be aware that the nut might be stuck, giving a false reading and a false sense of security. It is better to loosen the nut, then tighten it. If you want to be really anal about it, loosen the nuts (one at a time), then torque them to a few pounds less than spec. Once they are all at that lower torque value, bring them all up to spec, in the proper order, of course.

        .
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        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          #5
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          When you "check" the torque on a head bolt (actually a nut on a stud), the best way is to loosen it at least 1/4 turn, then tighten it to the proper torque.

          If you simply try to tighten the nut to spec, be aware that the nut might be stuck, giving a false reading and a false sense of security. It is better to loosen the nut, then tighten it. If you want to be really anal about it, loosen the nuts (one at a time), then torque them to a few pounds less than spec. Once they are all at that lower torque value, bring them all up to spec, in the proper order, of course.

          .

          Quite thorough, thank you Steve!
          Roger

          '83 GS850G Daily rider
          '82 GS1100GK Work in (slow) progress

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