Issue Found: Bad Universal In Drive Shaft!

[Guest]

I am embarrassed I say, I noticed the clunk when I first got this bike...

I brushed it off as just being an older bike without a second thought! Then after work today I decided to put it on the center stand thinking I would be motivated to change my oil (as if!) and with one spin of the back wheel I knew exactly what I was hearing. I'm not sure if the joint is replaceable, but if not I found a complete shaft for around $40 shipped on eBay.

The he real question here is how does one replace this? I have never had to do maintenance to a shaft drive bike before. (Now my ADD and exhaustion cause me to trail off... Have a good night!)

[tkent02]

Don't know about replacing it, can't be too difficult. Some of the shifty experts will be along to let you know. Probably good that you didn't find this issue when it failed at 100+mph.

[chuck hahn]

Year and model would shed some light on things as well. Maybe edit your signature and add that info for future inquiries.

[Steve]

Some of the shifty experts will be along to let you know.

Hi, shifty (shafty) expert here.

Yes, year and model would help with some details, but the basic operation is the same.

Remove the rear wheel.
Remove the final drive from the swingarm.
Remove the swingarm by removing the bearings, then sliding it off the driveshaft.
Remove the four bolts that hold the shaft to the secondary drive flange. It will be easier if the bike is in gear.
Install the new shaft.
Install the swingarm over the shaft.
Install the bearings so swingarm is centered and there is virtually no side-to-side play.
Install the final drive.
Check the splines on the wheel for unusual wear. You can NOT tell by looking at the ends of the teeth, that is not where the wear occurs.
Install the wheel.

Yeah there are a few details left out, like removing the shocks, the brake torque arm, etc., etc., but those are easy to figure out.

Back to your original question, no, the u-joint is not a separate item, you did good to get the whole shaft.

.

[tom203]

Why not peel back the rubber boot over the u-joint to confirm your diagnosis?

[Motojoe2492]

True, I am a bit upset with myself for ignoring it but it is what it is. I can't say I've hit 100 with it yet, I topped 90 once or twice very briefly but I don't make that a habit.

Alright, signature is edited, the manual I have made it easy to find the true sub model and all. I knew it was a "G" but went on to find it was the GD which doesn't even show up anywhere else on the web as far as details go.

Steve, it doesn't sound like a terrible job at all. In fact I was going to take it out today if the joint was removable. But I will be at least doing what Tom suggests, just in case the issue is with the final gear drive. (Also before I order the shaft)

Thanks for the info, looking forward to diving in!

[Motojoe2492]

Below is the link for the shaft I plan on ordering, and I just now notice it said used from a bike with 37,xxx miles

Not 100% thrilled about that but buying a house is a money sucker at the moment

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/351069709016

[Motojoe2492]

Alright, ujoint is fine... Sounds good until the problem actually comes from the diff.

I checked the oil in it and am glad to say it was nice and clear like it was recently changed. But it has a lot of slop, so I can't be tooooo thrilled. Any suggestions? I don't want to tear that off today, still gotta get to work on Monday

[Steve]

If the issue is merely "slop", check the splines in the rear wheel.

1. Remove the wheel.
2. Check the color of the splines. You might have gold splines, which were the softest ones made. Black or silver are preferred.
3. Remove the splines (#14 on this diagram)
4. Inspect for wear.

There was a problem with the gold-colored splines that showed up mid-'82. Replacement with earlier (black) or later (silver) splines is the solution. Fortunately, they are available MUCH cheaper than the new ones in the link offered. There have been a few threads here that show the wear on the splines, so they should show up with a search. Note that the wear is not easily visible without removing the splines from the wheel. Once you see where the wear happens, you will be able to inspect at a later time, but for the first inspection, remove them from the wheel.

When you re-assemble, apply a modest coat of moly paste to the teeth. We have been using Honda Moly 60, but have found that it has been discontinued and replaced by Moly 77 (?). You need a grease with a very HIGH Moly content, so don't just go down to the Auto Zone and get a tube of "moly" grease. It only needs 4% Moly to legally call itself a Moly grease, that is not enough for the splines.

EDIT:
Found some nice pictures.
This is a worn out gold set on top with a new set of silver on the bottom.
Note that the ends of the teeth closest to you appear full. The wear starts about 1/8" in.


Found another picture that shows the wear starting just past the visible end:


.

[Motojoe2492]

Oh I wish mine looked even half that good. I was very close to being stranded! I had to get creative to get the gear out, as there wasn't a lick of grease anywhere.

Some me thick rubbery residue is the best I could find. Any idea where I could pick up a good silver? I can't find them for sale anywhere. (Pictures soon)

[bwringer]

Oh I wish mine looked even half that good. I was very close to being stranded! I had to get creative to get the gear out, as there wasn't a lick of grease anywhere.

Some me thick rubbery residue is the best I could find. Any idea where I could pick up a good silver? I can't find them for sale anywhere. (Pictures soon)

The updated driven spline is still in use and still in production on Suzuki's newer cruisers.

Worst case, you're looking at about $140 and waiting a few days for a brand spankin' new one.

http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/64680-45113/joint-assy-driven

Notice there's a long list of bikes at that link that use this part. If you can find a driven spline (often sold as part of the rear wheel) from one of the listed bikes on fleaBay or at your local moto-boneyard, you should be able to save a few bucks and it should last a lifetime.

[Steve]

Here is a complete 650 wheel. Might ask the seller to remove the spline and sell it to you for the same price. Will save greatly on shipping and hassle. He can then sell the rest of the wheel for the same price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-suzuki-gs650g-rear-wheel-and-tire-130-90-17-good-tire-no-rot-/172310001168?hash=item281e79f610:g:Iq8AAOSw-itXtLOT&vxp=mtr

Another 650:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-SUZUKI-GS650-GS-650-GX-OEM-REAR-WHEEL-RIM-HUB-TIRE-/381617907383?hash=item58da3326b7:g:RfcAAOSwubRXIAl5&vxp=mtr

An 850:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-suzuki-gs850-rear-wheel-rim-w-brake-disc-S386-/291170459870?hash=item43cb1ca0de:g:gxgAAOxyrrpTiPN-&vxp=mtr

Yes, they exist, you just need to know what to look for. These results are the result of an eBay search for "Suzuki GS rear wheel". Just look down the list for ones from shaft-driven bikes.

.

[Motojoe2492]

That's great, Steve! Thank you. I wasn't looking forward to the cost of a new spline! Here are the pictures for you all to see. This may not be for the squeamish....
























photo share

[2BRacing]

Wow, that's definitely the most worn spline that I have ever seen!

[Motojoe2492]

**EDIT**


I have a high content moly grease to reassemble the rear wheel. What should I use to clean the grime and metal shavings from the output spline?

There was a problem with the gold-colored splines that showed up mid-'82. Replacement with earlier (black) or later (silver) splines is the solution. Fortunately, they are available MUCH cheaper than the new ones in the link offered. There have been a few threads here that show the wear on the splines, so they should show up with a search. Note that the wear is not easily visible without removing the splines from the wheel. Once you see where the wear happens, you will be able to inspect at a later time, but for the first inspection, remove them from the wheel.




Found another picture that shows the wear starting just past the visible end:


.

Yes, I am very thankful for the information you have provided. I scored a black alloy for $12.25 with $7-$12 shipping.

Should be back on the road next week, in the meantime the work provided Colorado will do. 25 mile commute, more fun on the GS!

Wow, that's definitely the most worn spline that I have ever seen!

I am petrified that I was riding that thing so much with this in this condition....