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1979 GS750 Blowing Blue smoke

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    1979 GS750 Blowing Blue smoke

    IMG_7587.jpg

    Having some oil leak problems. Attached is where the oil is leaking out, but bike is also blowing blue smoke and burning oil and a fairly fast pace.
    Has anyone encountered the same problems? Appears Gaskets are failing... considering full gasket kit to do replacements. Any tips?

    FYI the cards are in need of a Major tune also as the bike is running extremely rich at 20MPG! (that's for a different topic though)

    #2
    Originally posted by ehkmcveh View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]47279[/ATTACH]

    Having some oil leak problems. Attached is where the oil is leaking out, but bike is also blowing blue smoke and burning oil and a fairly fast pace.
    To be honest I am not sure where to start with this!
    a compression test of all the cylinders would give an indication of where you are.
    if the bike is burning oil as badly as you describe then it looks like you need to take off the head and cylinders to inspect the bores and Pistons/rings for wear and go from there.
    difficult to say where the oil is coming from in the photo as warm oil spreads all over the place when the bike is ridden.
    The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
    1981 gs850gx

    1999 RF900
    past bikes. RF900
    TL1000s
    Hayabusa
    gsx 750f x2
    197cc Francis Barnett
    various British nails

    Comment


      #3
      Yeah its burning pretty bad, smoked out my garage pretty good
      Burned through about a quart over 500km (300miles)

      Cylinder 1: 110psi
      Cylinder 2: 95psi
      Cylinder 3: 95psi
      Cylinder 4: 105psi

      Tested with the carbs off, and kicked it over until max psi was reached, about 10-15 kicks. Added oil to cylinder 1 and re-tested at 110psi, apparently a difference in this would point to the rings (so I read)...no difference. No sure what a "good" psi reading should be... I have read between 120-150...Is this true?
      Kinda wondering where to go next..

      Comment


        #4
        Is there a reason you did the test by kick starting v/s electric start? I would recommend doing the test with charged battery, electric start, all plugs removed and throttle wide open. Since the carbs are removed, then no need to mess with the throttle.
        http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
        1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
        1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
        1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

        Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

        JTGS850GL aka Julius

        GS Resource Greetings

        Comment


          #5
          No reason, just seen on a video (mrmaxstorey) on youtube you can do it that way also.
          Ok new readings, tested with full charged battery, 13.457V. Electric Start
          Cylinder 1: 100psi
          Cylinder 2: 85psi, would jump up to 30-60 psi then drop to 0...then reach max
          Cylinder 3: 90psi, would jump up to 30-60 psi then drop to 0...then reach max
          Cylinder 4: 100psi, would jump up to 30-60 psi then drop to 0...then reach max

          Cranked it about 10-15 times until max psi was reached, with all spark plugs out.

          Comment


            #6
            Those number are with a cold engine I'm assuming. Warm should be in the 120-150 range but cold can be a bit lower. Still kind of low on on cylinders 2 and 3. That plus the smoking engine and oil consumption would indicate a rebuild may be in your future. Since the numbers didn't go up when you put oil in the cylinders I'm supposing valves are an issue. That's assuming that there isn't already a lot of oil in your top end. If so, then the readings are actually worse and the rings are in pretty bad shape.
            http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

            JTGS850GL aka Julius

            GS Resource Greetings

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah its a cold engine.

              Ok so when you rebuild the engine you would have to change out the valves and rings anyway correct.
              Does anyone know of a good procedure (preferably a video) and parts list to get this rebuild done. I am new to this but got all winter

              I think I would need a full gasket kit as-well, since I have a leak on the oil pan and another leak on where the block meets the bottom end (not sure the terminology). Buddy from work has the same issue on his 79 GS850... seems like a common issue.

              Comment


                #8
                First thing you need to do is get a Suzuki workshop manual try here all the measurements and information are enclosed for you to make a decision on what needs to be done and replaced, most on here would recommend using Suzuki parts and gaskets.
                IF you can pick up a Haynes manual it may be worth while as it will explain some of the operations in simple terms but and I DO SAY BUT always cross check with the Suzuki manual and if there is a discrepancy FOLLOW THE SUZUKI MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS.
                Last edited by fastbysuzuki; 09-03-2016, 04:04 PM.
                The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                1981 gs850gx

                1999 RF900
                past bikes. RF900
                TL1000s
                Hayabusa
                gsx 750f x2
                197cc Francis Barnett
                various British nails

                Comment


                  #9
                  The valves usually don't need to be replace if they're not burnt/bent or otherwise damaged. They can usually be just re-lapped or resurfaced if really pitted. New valve stem seals are needed. In most cases you're talking about replacement rings, honing the cylinders and replacing a number of gaskets. Haven't seen any rebuild videos. Would be nice though.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Shouldn't you replace the cam chain as well when re-ringing? And maybe the circlips?
                    80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I haven't read anything on that yet or seen (youtube) having to change the cam chain .

                      I read in the Suzuki Service manual that you can leave the engine in place to do piston work, rings... pg 8 posted by fastbysuzuki below
                      Anyways, took the cam shafts off and trying to remove the upper block, but I believe the chain guard is holding me up from freeing the block.
                      This is from a GS550 video but the logic is still the same https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X0VwcdZq7M... video 2 I think.

                      Does anyone how to solve this issue, trying to avoid having to remove the whole engine

                      Comment


                        #12
                        nevermind, got the top block off...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          When taking off the valve boots, 1 got seized on as I think the alignment got jarred. Got mostly up with ease.. Trying pulling on it with vice grips and a shirt for cushion... not sure how delicate these boots are. Also tried tapping it back into the socket with a rubber mallet with no success.

                          Has anyone encountered this
                          IMG_7606.jpg

                          Comment


                            #14
                            They are precision parts, you bumped it crooked in the bore, f_cked it.
                            You need to gently tap the high side with a mallet harder than rubber until it's even all round.
                            1982 GS1100G- road bike
                            1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
                            1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane

                            Comment


                              #15
                              beauty, worked.
                              compared with one beside it and the high side became obvious, couple taps

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