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    Oil consumption during break up period

    Hi all
    I'm breaking down my gs 550 / 673cc. I just finished the 160 first kilometers and fixed all the small oil leaks (the majority came from the crappy gaskets). During 160km, I went from the "F" mark to the middle, exactly between F and L. I do not know how many oil is it, could you help me to determinate the oil consumption?

    Other question: I have a wet plug. The valves are brand new ones, even the valves seals (suzuki ones), even the rings, angular position between them ok... causing some smoke when re- accelerating. Do you think this could be normal when the break up period? Do I have to wait and see?

    Then finally, how many time the break in period spend? I went "only" 160km, driving in various conditions, but whitout going hard on it (< 6000 / 7000 rpm)

    thanks a lot

    #2
    Typically, when using OEM Suzuki pistons and rings, you will experience almost no oil burning during break-in. From what you state, your bike is burning more than normal. You may as well wait a little longer though and see what happens. Using a good bit of throttle, but not extreme, to seat the rings is the method I use.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Hopefully it's not too late to save your engine.

      Evidently you are following the "old school" method of engine break-in that requires gentle running for extended periods of time. Studies have found that is probably the worst way to treat your engine.

      Here are a few You Tube links that demonstrate the "new" way:

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      In a nutshell, you want to use the force of compression to help push the piston rings against the cylinder walls to do the break-in procedure. Light throttle and low speeds will not do that.

      .
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        #4
        I did not use a "low" break in. Pushed my engine around 6 / 7000 rpm, combining all positions of throttle. Somethink between the old school way and the new school. But the bike is burning oil, only on the 4rth cylinder. Nothing with the other. I think there is an issue there. But since the first start I find that the bike is smoking less and less. Wait and see..

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          #5
          how many oil is there between the F mark and the L mark, on our gs 550?

          Comment


            #6
            Read up on Motoman break in.
            "Thought he, it is a wicked world in all meridians; I'll die a pagan."
            ~Herman Melville

            2016 1200 Superlow
            1982 CB900f

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by GS1150Pilot View Post
              Read up on Motoman break in.
              I thought everyone was doing it that way now. Apparently not.

              Open and close the throttle. A lot. See if it gets better. Might be too late, or it might not be.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                I doubt the break-in method is the cause.

                Between F & L is something like a L of oil.

                Just guessing but when these sort of things happen on one cylinder that indicates the oil ring expander over lapped or you damaged one of the rails during cylinder install over the pistons.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  A few questions... When you did the "rebuild" did you verify cylinder specs? Taper? Roundness? Did you just hone the cylinders or do a complete re-bore? Assuming you only did the hone on the 650 cylinders. Did you remember to stagger the cylinder rings so the gaps didn't line up. Oil ring needs to have the upper and lower ring gaps staggered as well.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

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                    #10
                    Yep all what you say is done : no re boring but honing, checkin cylinder specs, rings gap, staggered all the rings even the two oil ones... the rings are new ones, valves are new ones, specs between the valves and the guides are ok (brand new) and the valve seals are new too. I changed the oil yesterday and put castrol 10w50. No apparent oil leak anymore when the bike is parked (had few ones around the clutch). Just this 4rth wet plug. Now the oil level is full. I want now to just run it and watch the oil consumption.

                    About the oil qty between the L and F mark i don t think that there is one liter. Maybe few cl (less than 400 cl). Will see

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