Stripping gearbox without stripping engine - GS1000?

[Guest]

Hi all. I guess that this has been asked before (in fact sure that I've seen it) but can't find it on the search button, so...

I have to get into my GS1000 chain drive (UK) gearbox, suspecting bent or worn selector forks or something else fairly serious as it's stuck in gear and I can't shift it out. It's an unknown box on a new-build tuned top end (silly me, didn't strip and check it beforehand . Oh well... ) Anyway it may just be an inspection and check or it may be a total box rebuild, or something inbetween.

I have heard and read that you can take the engine out, remove the camshaft and front cam chain blade and then turn it upside down, remove/split the bottom crankcase and then get into the gearbox that way. Is this correct? It would save me a lot of time and costly replacement of brand new head and base gaskets!

If it can be done, any tips, hints or warnings when doing it or putting it all back together?

Thanks.

[posplayr]

On the GS1100E/GS750E (which I'm guessing is same as GS1000)

1.) remove engine
2.) flip it over (engine stand is good for this)
3.) Remove clutch and stator covers
4.) split the lower cases
5.) remove transmission

Note you only need to pull the cam and chain if you are going to pull the crank but them the top end needs to come off if you pull the pistons from bores. GS1100 is all press fit, but the older GS750 has big end rod bolts. Not sure about GS1000 but the procedure is all in the factory manual if you can find that on Bass Cliffs website.

[tatu]

When you say stuck in gear, do you mean the gear lever doesn't move or it does but doesn't select a gear/change a gear?

[Wraith]

When you say stuck in gear, do you mean the gear lever doesn't move or it does but doesn't select a gear/change a gear?

The motor sticks in 4th and 5th and I a bas## to get out. 1/2/3 seem OK, gear rod and teeth look OK as dose the spring, so I am thinking dog bones?

[Wraith]

On the GS1100E/GS750E (which I'm guessing is same as GS1000)

GS1000(UK) is the 2 valve head, we in the UK call the 4 valve head motors the GSX.
Thanks for the info.

[Agemax]

You can do it by removing cams, front blade and tensioner. also you need to remove clutch assembly as there is a metal plate behind it that blanks off the end of the transmission shaft, but it straddles both cases, also a horseshoe shape plate on the other shaft.

[tatu]

You have to take the clutch cover and clutch all off any way, I would check all there, springs ect before pulling the engine to bits, I know there is a lot said about bent and damaged selector forks, but I have never seen any myself.

[Carter Turk]

You can do it by removing cams, front blade and tensioner. also you need to remove clutch assembly as there is a metal plate behind it that blanks off the end of the transmission shaft, but it straddles both cases, also a horseshoe shape plate on the other shaft.

Is there something different with 8 valve vs. 16 valve when comes to splitting cases?
I don't recall having to remove cams when I last split the cases.
This photo is a different issue of grenading #1 cylinder, conrod, counterweights and case but essentially the top end would be attached, exposing the tranny.
All the side covers need to come off, including front sprocket cover (a bolt and plate reside there, along with the plates behind the clutch as mentioned above). The crankshaft seal on the ignition side cover can be sticky when seperating halves, and it's easy to forget 1 bolt on either top or bottom half, if it's never been done before.
Might be worth pulling oil pan cover first to see if the shift drum detent spring is attached to the case webbing. Friends 750ES broke this spring and the whole engine was split to discover this when it was accessible from the oil pan cover.

[posplayr]

GS1000(UK) is the 2 valve head, we in the UK call the 4 valve head motors the GSX.
Thanks for the info.

Yes was aware of the gsx designation and that the EFE is not an 1150. As Carter posted I don't think splitting the cases is any different in any of the 4 cyl engines 2v or 4 v. Certainly no one has contradicted that yet. Maybe Ray can come along and confirm.

i don't know much xbout 2v other than it is 1/2 as much as 16v

[Wraith]

i don't know much xbout 2v other than it is 1/2 as much as 16v

Like it
I have stripped and rebuilt lots of motors 2 and 4 valve but always from the ground up, and I wanted to check with you lot before I started taking the bottom end off just to make shore.
Thanks to you all for your info and input as always much help and I will let you know how I get on.
Cheers

[Wraith]

Just a update for you all, stripped the bottom end (thanks for the pointers) could not see any damage anywhere, but when I rotated the gearbox gears that would turn apx 1 to 1 1/2 turns then seize up?
I put a different gear box in and all seems OK.
I cannot see any damaged cogs or teeth. Very strange.
I have order a load of bits (new OEM) for the gearbox as its apart may as well.