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Stator Rotor Slipping... is it easy to spot?

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    Stator Rotor Slipping... is it easy to spot?

    So I got my new carb synchronizer out this weekend and set the carbs (a couple were a little off- but overall pretty close), and after words I shut it off and it sounded like "something" kept moving in the motor on the left side. I did it a couple more times to see if it was my imagination, and it didn't make the sound again...but now I'm paranoid. I think this weekend I'll pull the side cover... will it be pretty obvious if the rotor is slipping?
    Last edited by TxGSrider; 11-07-2016, 10:10 AM.
    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

    #2
    Sounds like a good time to pull off the rotor and inspect the crank taper and starter clutch. Hopefully it's not the rotor because if you heard it slipping the crank may be damaged.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Sounds like a good time to pull off the rotor and inspect the crank taper and starter clutch. Hopefully it's not the rotor because if you heard it slipping the crank may be damaged.
      Thanks Nessism, will it be pretty obvious when I pull the cover that its been slipping? Will I be able to turn it by hand or anything?
      1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

      Comment


        #4
        I doubt it will be that loose. You will have to remove the rotor and then look for damage to the crank end.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          If the rotor is that loose the bike wouldn't be able to start. Hopefully the noise is something else.
          '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
          https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

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            #6
            '82 1100's had a smaller diameter crank at the rotor and have a small history of breaking the crank when missing a shift at higher RPM. I think those were 23mm at the rotor.

            The '83's have a 25mm (if I recall) diameter at the rotor. That 25mm end of the crank with the rotor shaft and combined counterweight/cheek plate are or were available from Suzuki - maybe no longer. If you find your crank broken or cracked call Falicon or I think, it's Pearson in Ohio ?? or call Schnitz Racing for help.
            Last edited by Guest; 11-07-2016, 01:54 PM.

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              #7
              Thanks guys, Ive got a puller and gasket on order. My neighbor up the street has an 82 GS1100E as well (its setting under a tarp and hasn't ran in years...1260cc, welded crank and some type of aftermarket cams, V&H exhaust) . When I first bought mine he came by and said "If you ever hear a spinning sound after you kill the engine, shut it off and fix the rotor before you screw up the crank shaft". Apparently his did it once. He polished it with emery cloth and used locktite and bolted it back together and never had another issue.
              1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

              Comment


                #8
                Had a similar experience with a highly tuned GS1000 many moons ago AND with my 1200 Bandit a few weeks ago -

                In both cases applied High temp loctite red - problem solved

                If you need a huge torque wrench (you'll need about 120lb/ft) - I have a brand new just calibrated one you could borrow
                78 GS1000C- Now sporting 1100E suspension and numerous goodies
                82 GS750E/82 1100E/ GSXR Frankenstein bike completed
                83 1100E "rescue bike" saved from the barn
                2008 Bking - Torque Torque Torque
                Next project slowly coalescing

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by bsharpish View Post
                  Had a similar experience with a highly tuned GS1000 many moons ago AND with my 1200 Bandit a few weeks ago -

                  In both cases applied High temp loctite red - problem solved

                  If you need a huge torque wrench (you'll need about 120lb/ft) - I have a brand new just calibrated one you could borrow
                  Thanks for the offer, but Ive got one. I figured I'd get it on with an impact wrench then final torque it with the torque wrench.
                  1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

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                    #10
                    Pearson in Ohio replaced these parts on my 1150, aside from the piston.
                    GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Carter Turk View Post
                      Pearson in Ohio replaced these parts on my 1150, aside from the piston.
                      Ouch. What was the root cause?
                      sigpic
                      09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
                      1983 GS1100e
                      82\83 1100e Frankenbike
                      1980 GS1260
                      Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

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                        #12
                        Something that I have done several times on all different type motors when the rotor spins on the crank (even slightly damaged) is to take valve lapping compound and lap the rotor to the crank. Just apply the lapping compound to the crank and inside the rotor and spin the rotor on the crank until both surfaces have a dull grey look with no shinny spots, Clean off all the lapping compound and dry the parts with lacquer thinner, apply a little red Loctite and torque it down. I would also check the starter clutch bolts while in there I have had several GS's loosen them.
                        sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by bobgroger View Post
                          Ouch. What was the root cause?
                          I've posted this photo before. Damaged the closest piston, sleeve, rod, and case.

                          GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Holy Crap! Was all that carnage from a slipping rotor?????
                            1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by gs11ezrydr View Post
                              Something that I have done several times on all different type motors when the rotor spins on the crank (even slightly damaged) is to take valve lapping compound and lap the rotor to the crank.
                              Great tip, great thinking

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