I've been creeping here and reading bikecliffs site like a bible. Today I rebuilt the timing chain tensioner(leaking oil), pulled off the carbs and boots to check the o-rings on the intake boots and they were surprisingly in good shape. Still round and springy. I pulled the gas tank off and rebuilt the petcock and modified(per bikecliff's site) the fuel level sender because it didn't work. Went into the clutch basket and found the friction plates within spec, but several plates were blued and slightly warped and the springs were out of specs. I replaced 4 of the steel plates(OEM Suzuki) and replaced 3 of the worst friction plates with new suzuki plates and installed KG heavy duty clutch springs. Feels way better at the lever, but I haven't been able to test ride due to valve clearances.
Which brings me to my questions. I downloaded the worksheet to check the valves and started checking them slowly and methodically. On all the intake valves I can NOT get my thinnest gauge( .0015in/.038mm) to go in, but all the buckets still spin with finger pressure. I can fit my .0015in gauge in all the exhaust valves, but not a .002in gauge.
Shim sizes are as follows:
Cyl #1: ex 2.90; in 2.60x
Cyl #2: ex 2.90; in 2.65
Cyl #3: ex 2.65; in 2.75x(numbers worn off but checked with a caliper)
Cyl #4: ex 2.65; in 2.65
So I know I need to get some thinner shims, but I'm not sure if I need to drop the intake shims 1 or 2 sizes. I am not sure where to get shims, I live in northwestern bumf**k Georgia and I don't really trust the bike shops around here. I am hoping some of the mighty gurus here can point in the right direction.
Thanks,
Q
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