Replacing head bolts...

[Guest]

Hi all,

I have purchased all new OEM head bolts to replace the rusted ones on my '81 GS850G, as well as the brass (copper?) gaskets that go underneath them. My plan is to replace them one at a time, torquing them to the correct torque as I go. Does anyone see any reason why that would NOT be a good idea? There is no reason to remove the head on this bike, so having all the bolts off at the same time seems like it would be a bad idea.

Scott

[Brendan W]

Sounds like ain't broke don't fix territory and there are probably dozens of reasons not to do it.
Pic of the rust would help but you have to factor in one bolt going pear shaped and the head and barrel are off then.
Copper goes on the four wet bolts, two each side, to seal the oil risers.

[fastbysuzuki]

Ime with Brendan on that.

[Guest]

Sounds like ain't broke don't fix territory and there are probably dozens of reasons not to do it.
Pic of the rust would help but you have to factor in one bolt going pear shaped and the head and barrel are off then.
Copper goes on the four wet bolts, two each side, to seal the oil risers.

Hi Brendan,

But it IS broke; rust is not good on a bike that I want to be nice, and the rust has progressed to the point that chrome polish won't save it. I have some Kroil penetrating oil that I will spray on the bolts a day ahead of time and let it soak so minimize the chance of anything horrible happening. Again, my plan it to do this one at a time. When install the new nuts/bolts, I will apply anti-seize to the threads to ensure they come out easily if/when I need to in the future. I'll take a few pictures this evening and post them here so y'all can see.

Scott

[Brendan W]

Hi Scott, just been looking at the pictures of bike. I see what you mean about the rust on the outer chromed cap-nuts.
Maybe we are talking at cross purposes here. Is it your intention to replace those four chromed nuts only?

[Tom R]

I've done stuff of the sort without any problems. Assuming you don't break or bugger anything taking the bolts off, I don't see a problem really... go opposite order of install torque sequence? Maybe just replace the visible ones to reduce risk? I dunno, I don't have to look at your bike, but I'd prob let it go. If there's so much rust on the bolts, how does everything else look?

Edit - just looked a your flicker pictures - nice bike - and yeah, those rusty nuts would bother me too. Though I might be contented only changing the outer nuts and bolts.

[JJ]

Nice bike!

Personally, I'd leave them alone. The risk of something screwing up outweighs the fact that the bolts are a little rusty. Do you plan to enter it in bike shows, or ride the Hell out of it?

[Guest]

Hi Tom,

Yes, replacing just the visible ones is the plan. My eventual goal is to have this bike look new. It isn't far from that now, but there are still several little details that need to be done. I'm working on verifying/fixing mechanical issues as I go, and working on the cosmetics as it seems reasonable to do so. Here is a link to some photos of my bike on Flickr...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129480799@N07/albums/72157678511286433

[Guest]

Nice bike!

Personally, I'd leave them alone. The risk of something screwing up outweighs the fact that the bolts are a little rusty. Do you plan to enter it in bike shows, or ride the Hell out of it?

Neither. I bought a twin to this bike new in 1981, so this is a nostalgia thing for me. I want this bike to draw admiring looks and comments from people when they look at it. I do NOT want it to look like a crusty old bike. And I want it to work right, too. When I ride, I ride pretty conservatively. I have no desire to race it (at 61, I'm past that).

[JJ]

Neither. I bought a twin to this bike new in 1981, so this is a nostalgia thing for me. I want this bike to draw admiring looks and comments from people when they look at it. I do NOT want it to look like a crusty old bike. And I want it to work right, too. When I ride, I ride pretty conservatively. I have no desire to race it (at 61, I'm past that).

OK. I didn't mean to ride it fast and hard like a squid. I was talking mileage when i said ride the hell out of it. LOL...

I'm 60 (for another couple of months) and retired, myself, so I know where you're coming from.

[sam000lee]

If you're doing one do them all. The head bolts are supposed to be installed from the inside out to ensure even pressure on the head gasket. On my GS450 and GS750 - I hand tighten them all starting with the inner four bolts and working out, then go back and hand tighten again- since the some of the stress on the inner ones will have been relieved by tightening the rest - and then give everything (again from inside out) a 1/4 turn with a wrench. If you wanted it would probably also be a good time to do a valve adjustment if you're due for one.

[Guest]

If you're doing one do them all. The head bolts are supposed to be installed from the inside out to ensure even pressure on the head gasket. On my GS450 and GS750 - I hand tighten them all starting with the inner four bolts and working out, then go back and hand tighten again- since the some of the stress on the inner ones will have been relieved by tightening the rest - and then give everything (again from inside out) a 1/4 turn with a wrench. If you wanted it would probably also be a good time to do a valve adjustment if you're due for one.

I am doing the valves next weekend. As for doing all the head bolts, I'm a little bit concernced that if I remove all the bolts without also installing a new gasket, the old gasket might not do its job after I finish. I'm pretty sure this engine has never been into, and I'm hesitant to upset a 36 year old head gasket. My plan is to just do the chrome acorn nuts that are visible from the outside. That way, the pressure on the old gasket would remain undisturbed except for that one corner.

[Steve]

I was thinking that you will have a very hard time removing ANY of the bolts (studs, actually) without removing the head.

And the only ones you can see without lifting the tank are the ones with the chrome acorn nuts, so just replace the four acorn nuts and be done.

.

[JTGS850GL]

I think there are some nomenclature/terminology issues that are confusing some here. As I understand it, you're talking about just replacing the chrome plated nuts on top of the head that screw down onto the studs that go through the entire cylinder/head assembly. If that's the case, then go for it. You can unscrew each of the nuts one at a time just like you described. You might want to start at the center but it shouldn't be necessary. Just don't unscrew more than one at a time and there should be no issues with unloading the head and base gaskets.

[Guest]

I think there are some nomenclature/terminology issues that are confusing some here. As I understand it, you're talking about just replacing the chrome plated nuts on top of the head that screw down onto the studs that go through the entire cylinder/head assembly. If that's the case, then go for it. You can unscrew each of the nuts one at a time just like you described. You might want to start at the center but it shouldn't be necessary. Just don't unscrew more than one at a time and there should be no issues with unloading the head and base gaskets.

I think you're right. I am talking about just the four chrome acorn nuts that are visible from the outside. Thanks for your input.