#3 exhaust cam lobe is scratched. There is signs of scratching on the shim as well. The scratch on the side of the lobe fingernail will actually stop in. Thoughts ?
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cam lobe scratches
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#3 exhaust cam lobe is scratched. There is signs of scratching on the shim as well. The scratch on the side of the lobe fingernail will actually stop in. Thoughts ?Tags: None
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60ratrod
Probably from someone not using the right tool on the shims. It should polish itself smooth again
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BillH
One more question - I have seen a couple of notes about installing the half moon rubber oil seals on the ends of the cam backwards to "help reduce" cam walk. Is there any merits to this ? And if you do, what prevents the notches on the end of the cams from shredding the rubber and having rubber bits in your valve train area. Thanks
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Originally posted by BillH View PostOne more question - I have seen a couple of notes about installing the half moon rubber oil seals on the ends of the cam backwards to "help reduce" cam walk. Is there any merits to this ? And if you do, what prevents the notches on the end of the cams from shredding the rubber and having rubber bits in your valve train area. Thanks
I have cam walk on my '82 and had it on my '82 850, it was occasional and I just ignored it.
Its harmless and it grew on me. Which means it sucks but I got used to it.
I liked the lip of the half moons inside to help keep from leaking and to keep from coming out but I never figured out what keeps them from going inAlan
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Weaned on a '74 450 Honda
Graduated to an '82 GS850GL
Now riding an '83 GS1100GL
Added an '82 GS1100GL
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BillH
Thanks Alan
I had what was cam walk noise as well. Last year it was intermittent but this year it has gotten worse. It is all the time now, cold engine, hot engine, leaning, parking it on center stand doesn't matter and it's pretty loud. Yes it goes away after 2K rpm. So my thinking was to try some of the less expensive things a couple of folks had mentioned, like shim buckets, and turning the rubber end caps backward. I have seen the paper on the machining the head and half moon spacers to remedy the cam walk. I would have to take it somewhere for that to be done. Not sure if all the work I'm doing will help but I did want to try. Learning experience anyway.
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Originally posted by BillH View PostOne more question - I have seen a couple of notes about installing the half moon rubber oil seals on the ends of the cam backwards to "help reduce" cam walk. Is there any merits to this ? And if you do, what prevents the notches on the end of the cams from shredding the rubber and having rubber bits in your valve train area. Thankshttps://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
1981 HD XLH
Drew's 850 L Restoration
Drew's 83 750E Project
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The manufacturing tolerances are loose enough that the half moons may or may not fit in backwards. On one side of my head, they won't go in backwards. I don't do this for the cam walk though. Intuitively, it seems less likely to leak.
Edit: Oh yes, the cam lobe. You'll notice the scratches are in an area where you can still see the original grind on the cam. It still has clearance on that part of the cam. So, the scratches won't hurt just make sure there's no raised material or a burr ready to fall off.Last edited by Dogma; 06-05-2017, 10:24 PM.Dogma
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'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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BillH
Update - so I have everything back together and have started it. The knocking noise is gone, well at least for now. YAH !! I think the carbs need tweaking again. So maybe all those little things helped. I hope to ride to ride it some this coming week.
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