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Finding neutral when rolling
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Originally posted by hikermikem View PostMy '81 1100E finds neutral quite easily now, and shifts smoothly.
However, I had the same issue as you - took everything apart several times, checked & rechecked the plates & fibers, didn't fix anything.
Finally bought a set of new OEM steels & aftermarket fibers, and replaced that small rubber plug (cushion) on the backside of the basket...
Took everything apart & meticulously filed smooth all the notches in the basket (again).
Roughed up the steel faces with coarse grit sand paper.
Soaked the new steels & fibers in fresh oil overnight.
Took apart the release arm assembly in the cover, cleaned & verified everything was moving as it should.
Reassembled the clutch and took great care to make sure all the parts matched the ones seen on the parts fiche.
Verified the backside of the basket was properly engaged with the mating part.
Installed a new OEM clutch cable
New oil
Voila, all good now... did this exact process on my son's '80 1100L that keep the wheel spinning even in neutral with the same results...
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Originally posted by gplouff View Post.....a thicker clutch pack seems counterintuitive to this problem....Current:
Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)
Past:
VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....
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Originally posted by John Park View PostAs a matter of interest, what oil are you using? Anything particular?
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Originally posted by gplouff View PostThis is what I've been looking for. Thanks hikermikem! Good price on the aftermarket fibers too. What do you suppose the cushion does?
Also, forgot to mention I replaced all the springs with new OEM ones too - cheap enough for the piece of mind.
And for what it's worth, I use nothing but Rotella 15-40 oil (white jug) bought typically at Wally World on sale.
Not sure if you have a favorite OEM parts supplier but I've found Parts Outlaw to be a very good one both in price & quickness of delivery. If you enter BANG in the coupon code box when checking out you get free or almost free shipping...
'85 GS550L - SOLD
'85 GS550E - SOLD
'82 GS650GL - SOLD
'81 GS750L - SOLD
'82 GS850GL - trusty steed
'80 GS1100L - son's project bike
'82 GS1100G - SOLD
'81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)
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Originally posted by Gorminrider View PostEsso "XD?" 15-40 (name escapes me exactly but it looks to be the typical diesel pick-up truck type) ..at a yard sale...so it's not "particular"! and I don't know who deals it outside of Esso depots but it seems to stay "soft" longer than the Rotella and CanTire types I've tried in the gsx400 beater bike that I ride the most for town trips...(more shifting)
I think that the same tangling properties contribute to clutch drag and interplate suction in wet clutches. You need the viscosity to assure that the oil doesn't all fall out the nearest available orifice instead of distributing itself evenly, and that there is enough resistance to flow to keep oil from centrifuging off the rods faster than it's being replaced. A straight 40 would be fine, but wouldn't flow well enough when cold to keep up with a high revving motor.
Ideally, we would have a 10w40 with no vi improvers. Synthetics attempt to do that, but get quite expensive the closer you get. I think that polyalphaolefin [PAO] base stocks are inherently low viscosity and ester base can be made thicker but is expensive.
I've been through all the guff you get from the twin gearboxes and clutch. I just run ester base synthetic and have no more clutch drag, tricky neutral, and sticky shifting. The difference is immediately obvious and also improves on the next oil change as the remains of the old are dumped. I've gone through this on many twins, and also Hondas. etc. I don't think it lubricates significantly better or makes your motor last longer, but once you've experienced the difference aft of the motor you can make up your mind if it's worth it to you.
I used to be a Motul fan, but the formulas have changed and the production shifted from France to the US and not for the better IMO. Maxima Pro Plus is better and has some of the highest zinc specs in analysis. There are probably other good choices, but this is probably as good as it gets for street use.'82 GS450T
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I've always used motorcycle specific oil, probably due to articles I've read in Motorcyclist magazine over the years. I ran golden spectro full synthetic in an FJ 1200 under their recommendation, and it did shift a little better as I recall. I run a semi synthetic in a ZZR1200, and that shifts like a dream. I remember using Bel Ray conventional back in the day. I'm currently running Suzuki 10 40 conventional in my GS 1100, but maybe I should try a synthetic.
Good tip on Parts Outlaw. I've been using Babbitts (suzukipartshouse) and my local dealer. He's sometimes cheaper than Babbitts, certainly faster, and I don't mind throwing him a few bucks occasionally.
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Originally posted by gplouff View PostHe's sometimes cheaper than Babbitts, certainly faster, and I don't mind throwing him a few bucks occasionally.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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A week of mail time in the summer when the weather's nice can be pretty painful if you're down for parts. Plus my guy has been selling Suzukis since the seventies. He sold these bikes new, so I don't mind going in and seeing him once in awhile and maybe contributing to his retirement just a little.
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Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View PostFYI, he's no faster than any of the other parts houses as they all have to get the order from the warehouse (3-5 days) than send it to you. You are only saving the up to a week mail time by having it sent to your local dealer compared to Babbitts or Parts Outlaw.1983 GS 550 LD
2009 BMW K1300s
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I've always used motorcycle specific oil....,I've been through all the guff you get from the twin gearboxes and clutch. I just run ester base synthetic and have no more clutch drag, tricky neutral, and sticky shiftingbut it hurts so bad! The Nice400 would be the one for this, butThis bike cost me a $100 so I would cry putting $100 worth of oil in it...mind you + $160 in tires,$30 chain...$40 brake reservoir a new $50 caliper piston...
Despite claims of shear stable polymers, motorcycle gearboxes chew them up pretty quickly.....(sure seems so-I do agree)
I think that the same tangling properties contribute to clutch drag and interplate suction in wet clutches.
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Originally posted by Gorminrider View Postyes, You guys have almost convinced ME anyways...I really should take a slide-hammer and crack this wallet open somedaybut it hurts so bad! The Nice400 would be the one for this, butThis bike cost me a $100 so I would cry putting $100 worth of oil in it...mind you + $160 in tires,$30 chain...$40 brake reservoir a new $50 caliper piston...
THAT's Very interesting!..why I like forums...
I've always kept some drained 'good' oil for use as flushing oil on resurrection projects and such. I know, pouring shiny golden new oil in is way nicer feeling than some rather dark and experienced goop, but gears and bearings can't see, and it's dark in there anyway.'82 GS450T
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Originally posted by hjfisk View PostA worn clutch basket will make it difficult to get neutral, where the plates contact the basket if it is notchy they don't slide and release properly
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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