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Please explain, PLATE, DRIVE (T:3) "PLATE, D" what to buy?

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    Please explain, PLATE, DRIVE (T:3) "PLATE, D" what to buy?

    My first post - promise to update my 1982 GS1100G history soon. My clutch slips under hard acceleration (7500+ rpm, full throttle). I've read a ton of posts and understand about replacing springs, and possibly other parts. But I'm trying to understand what typically gets replaced - I assume its friction plates? On parts websites the terminology in my post Title is what gets used, but here, everyone talks about metal plates/friction plates. The price difference more than double... so what is first to wears out (under normal use) - the PLATE, DRIVE (T3) at 18.60 each USD or the the "PLATE, D" at 7.01 each USD? Which is a "metal plate" and which is the "friction plate"?

    Thanks for any help!

    #2
    D = drive
    Those are the plates with the friction material on them. They typically last the life of the bike unless someone used crappy oil and ruined them.
    New OEM springs is typically all that's needed to fix a slipping clutch. A new cable is a thing of beauty too so consider getting one of those while you are at it.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessi[COLOR=#FF0000
      [/COLOR]sm;2418292]D = drive
      Those are the plates with the friction material on them. They typically last the life of the bike unless someone used crappy oil and ruined them.
      New OEM springs is typically all that's needed to fix a slipping clutch. A new cable is a thing of beauty too so consider getting one of those while you are at it.
      Especially when your old breaks on you in the middle of no where. A spare is easy to carry with you. Springs fixed mine. You could always micrometer the existing plates and compare with factory wear limits. A new gasket will be in order.
      cg
      sigpic
      83 GS1100g
      2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

      Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

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        #4
        Check the steels for bluing and warpage also since you state it has been slipping. Its open already so be sure alls well before buttoning it up.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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          #5
          Thanks guys. Springs are on the way, gasket too. I haven't opened it up yet, but I'll be sure to check the plates, splines, basket, etc. Also waiting for all the air intake rebuild parts. The airbox looks good, added seals to the access panels. I rode this bike 1600 mi from Syracuse to Duluth, MN with stops to see friends and family. Fun but dicey on a used bike I bought pretty much sight unseen. I learned awhile ago to check for forum support before buying a classic bike - this is one of the best support groups I've seen! Much appreciated...

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            #6
            An update - Replaced the original springs with 6 OEM springs and problem solved. The original springs were just within the service limit (38.8) - mine measured at 39-39.5. The plates were well within service limits and I could see no wear on splines. Happily, the clutch seems in great shape, not much slop anywhere.

            Thanks all for the help.

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