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    #16
    Originally posted by Rijko View Post
    not the case with a GS i'm afraid ... though they may not break, i have never seen a cam chain on a GS that was still within the wear limit after 70K ... (that's kilometers so not even 50,000 miles)

    What is forcing the replacement is a worn chain makes it impossible to adjust the engine properly. Valves open and close off-timing and the engine will not run really nice anymore.
    If that was true than how come we have members around here with over 100k MILES on their GS's (with original cam chain) and the bikes still run nicely?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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      #17
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      If that was true than how come we have members around here with over 100k MILES on their GS's (with original cam chain) and the bikes still run nicely?
      that's easy ... they do not run as nicely as they can
      Rijk

      Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

      CV Carb rebuild tutorial
      VM Carb rebuild tutorial
      Bikecliff's website
      The Stator Papers

      "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

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        #18
        Sorry but that link is not a cam chain for any GS engine. The sellers on crack. These are GS cam chains.


        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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          #19
          i guess you're basing that on the picture alone ?

          it's in the ad ...

          Please Note The Picture is a Generic One.
          Please Check If the Correct Amount of Links on Your Old Chain Matches Our Listing.
          The Listed Product is a Direct Replacement for your Original Part.
          the point of this conversation imo still being it is not necessary to completely take apart the engine to replace the cam chain.
          Ask any professional motorcycle repair guy - it makes absolutely no sense to take apart the whole engine for a simple cam chain replacement.
          Cost-wise, that is.

          Here's another manufacturer that delivers open cam chains.



          *Supplied endless but can be un-joined on request
          Rijk

          Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

          CV Carb rebuild tutorial
          VM Carb rebuild tutorial
          Bikecliff's website
          The Stator Papers

          "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

          Comment


            #20
            Yeah i saw the picture and assumed incorrectly it was what the seller was representing as a cam chain.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #21
              I just replaced the cam chain on my wife's '82 GS850G. I bought a DID219FTS(S), which came open with a rivet link. No major surgery involved. The bike had 77,000km (44,000ish miles). Yes it REALLY needed it. It was talking to me big time, and manually turning the motor over I could see at times where it wasn't even touching the guide wheel in the tower! Yes, the tensioner was working.
              Kevin
              E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
              "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

              1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
              Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

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                #22
                Originally posted by mcycle-nut View Post
                I just replaced the cam chain on my wife's '82 GS850G. I bought a DID219FTS(S), which came open with a rivet link. No major surgery involved. The bike had 77,000km (44,000ish miles). Yes it REALLY needed it. It was talking to me big time, and manually turning the motor over I could see at times where it wasn't even touching the guide wheel in the tower! Yes, the tensioner was working.
                Not touching the guide wheel is not a valid test. Depending on where the cam lobes are pointing there may be extra slack in the chain during a static test like that. The real test of chain stretch is to measure between link pins as described in the factory service manual. Did you do that? I find it very hard to fathom how the chain could have elongated out of the service limit in only 44k miles unless someone damaged the tensioner or something to this effect.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #23
                  Not sure if anyone has seen this:



                  Question on measuring cam chain stretch. The manual specifies measuring between some number of pins (I can't recall how many). But when measuring do you measure from the middle of the pins, from the outside edge. It would make a huge difference.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
                    Not sure if anyone has seen this:



                    Question on measuring cam chain stretch. The manual specifies measuring between some number of pins (I can't recall how many). But when measuring do you measure from the middle of the pins, from the outside edge. It would make a huge difference.
                    It doesn't matter what part of the pin you measure from as long as you are consistent on the other end.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      It doesn't matter what part of the pin you measure from as long as you are consistent on the other end.
                      I guess I didn't make myself clear.

                      If I pick two pins to measure between and line up the tips of my caliper on the pins, should the tips be at the center of the pins or should the left tip be on the left edge of the pin and the right tip be on the right edge of the pin.

                      Basically I want to know if I should include the width of the pins in the measurement.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
                        I guess I didn't make myself clear.

                        If I pick two pins to measure between and line up the tips of my caliper on the pins, should the tips be at the center of the pins or should the left tip be on the left edge of the pin and the right tip be on the right edge of the pin.

                        Basically I want to know if I should include the width of the pins in the measurement.
                        I might be wrong, but I don't think you have to be quite that technical.
                        Larry

                        '79 GS 1000E
                        '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
                        '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
                        '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
                        '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
                          I guess I didn't make myself clear.

                          If I pick two pins to measure between and line up the tips of my caliper on the pins, should the tips be at the center of the pins or should the left tip be on the left edge of the pin and the right tip be on the right edge of the pin.

                          Basically I want to know if I should include the width of the pins in the measurement.
                          If you measure from the right side of one pin, measure to the right side of the other pin. If you measure from the left side of one pin, measure to the left side of the other pin. If you measure from the center of one pin, you guessed it... measure to the center of the other pin.
                          Jordan

                          1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                          2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                          1973 BMW R75/5

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                            #28


                            Q


                            Galea Cam Chain Services have been fitting split cam chains and riveting/ peering over a soft link on almost all bikes for 25 years, he kept the couriers bikes going in London and never had a failure so there is nothing new in this technique providing the person doing it knows what they are doing.
                            The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                            1981 gs850gx

                            1999 RF900
                            past bikes. RF900
                            TL1000s
                            Hayabusa
                            gsx 750f x2
                            197cc Francis Barnett
                            various British nails

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              Not touching the guide wheel is not a valid test. Depending on where the cam lobes are pointing there may be extra slack in the chain during a static test like that. The real test of chain stretch is to measure between link pins as described in the factory service manual. Did you do that? I find it very hard to fathom how the chain could have elongated out of the service limit in only 44k miles unless someone damaged the tensioner or something to this effect.
                              I know, seems funny to me too. Maybe the odo has flipped over once, making it over 100,000km, (62,000mi), more than registered? I don't know, I didn't buy the bike new. No, I didn't measure the chain, but if you had heard the bike running and seen the slop between tight and loose when it was in the bike and the fact that when it was out of the bike you could have tied a knot in it you would agree, it was done like dinner.
                              Kevin
                              E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
                              "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

                              1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
                              Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

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                                #30
                                I'd just like to throw my money in - I've replaced several camchains with a soft-link one. I've NEVER had to split the engine cases to do it.

                                On the subject of cam chain wear - I find that a bike that does lots of steady-state miles (A-B on motorways all day long) has virtually zero camchain wear.
                                Otoh, harsh acceleration around the backroads kills them relatively quickly. The camchain is subject to accelerative forces just the same as the crankshaft, geartrain and everything else.
                                I'd also add to that, that POs who might not have been timely in changing oil are a contributory factor.
                                The dreaded PO again
                                Last edited by Grimly; 08-12-2018, 04:51 PM.
                                ---- Dave

                                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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