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Cylinders stuck too block! Gs1000

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    Cylinders stuck too block! Gs1000

    I'm in the middle of a top end tear down on my 79 gs1000 and have hit the weirdest snag I've ever hit! The cylinder aka the jugs will not come off! I've never had this happen! Usually a couple light raps with a mallet and they pop off. Not this one! I currently have a come along hooked to both sides of the jugs ,via the bolts used too attach the head too the jugs and the bike about 1 inch off the ground and it still won't break that base gasket loose! I've even whacked it with a board and a sledge and nothing! According to the manual and what I can see there aren't any other bolts holding them on . Y'all know any tricks on how to get this thing off? I've tried heat too with zero luck! I'm absolutely stumped!!!

    #2
    Crud and rust down the bolts holes maybe?? May fill the stud holes with some penetrating oil and let them soak a while???
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #3
      Yeah, dump some atf down the cylinder walls and let it sit for a day. Then whack them out from below with a piece of wood or something equally soft.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Bortasqu View Post
        Yeah, dump some atf down the cylinder walls and let it sit for a day. Then whack them out from below with a piece of wood or something equally soft.
        That won't do anything other than dump ATP in the crankcase. Shooting stuff down the stud holes may help, but most likely won't.

        I use a board across the cylinder fins to spread the load and then whack it with a BFH. The fins are joined together with vertical ribs. Be sure to span across a few of these ribs with the board to protect the fins from breaking off.

        When you get the cylinder loose the base gasket is going to be petrified. Getting that off is a biotch.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          That won't do anything other than dump ATP in the crankcase. Shooting stuff down the stud holes may help, but most likely won't.

          I use a board across the cylinder fins to spread the load and then whack it with a BFH. The fins are joined together with vertical ribs. Be sure to span across a few of these ribs with the board to protect the fins from breaking off.

          When you get the cylinder loose the base gasket is going to be petrified. Getting that off is a biotch.
          I have whacked the tar out of it with a pine board and a 10lb sledgehammer with zero movement. I have soaked the studs in marvel mystery oil for hours and I still bat zero. Like I said. The entire bike is hanging in the air right now by the cylinder block and whatever is holding the cylinders too the case. The bike was a runner before tearing into it so nothing in the rotating assembly is bound. It just suffered from really low compression in cylinders 1&2 and with 75 and 35 lbs! 3&4 were at 95 & 115. The pistons are actually able to be rocked in their bores . One question I do have is, do the head studs thread into the block or are they pressed? I'm thinking of removing them completely so I can remove them from the equation.

          Comment


            #6
            Threaded into the lower case
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
              Threaded into the lower case
              So how do I remove the cylinders then?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Jims72 View Post
                So how do I remove the cylinders then?
                You are aware that the block simply slides off the studs ? I'm curious as to how you've hung the bike on the cylinder block as I can't see a way of getting enough of a grip on the block....
                If you wish to remove the studs, double nutting them usually works - sometimes with some assistance from a heat gun around the stud base.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GregT View Post
                  You are aware that the block simply slides off the studs ? I'm curious as to how you've hung the bike on the cylinder block as I can't see a way of getting enough of a grip on the block....
                  If you wish to remove the studs, double nutting them usually works - sometimes with some assistance from a heat gun around the stud base.
                  I have the bike hanging by the cylinder too put upward pressure on the cylinder because it won't slide off! I've tried heat the suzuki tool, prying ,whacking it with a 10lb sledge and a board, I tried removing the studs by double nutting and they just break loose and come off. I have tried all the usual tricks and nothing is working!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Crud and rust down the bolts holes maybe?? May fill the stud holes with some penetrating oil and let them soak a while???
                    +1 .. i had the same issue with several GS1000 cylinders.
                    This is the first option for me to try.
                    Hanging by the cylinders is a good option, let gravity help.
                    Put the nuts back on the studs, use penetrating oil, gently hit the nuts from the side now and again to help the penetrating oil.

                    Took me a week last time before the cylinders started to move.
                    Last edited by Rijko; 08-20-2017, 05:28 PM.
                    Rijk

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well, it's off. Had two issues. The usual corrosion around the center studs and some jack ass used loctite on the dowel pins! Had to get the studs free then heated it up too liquids the loctite. It slid right off.hanging it actually helped a ton.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Locktite on dowel pins, that's something you don't see every day.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Holly **** that is a trick..... who would have thought.
                          Current Bikes.... 81,1230Kat, 86,GSXR1100, 86,RG500, :D
                          The 80`s - Back in the days when men looked like women, women dressed like whores and the music F@#KING ROCKED! http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/friday.gif

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