I did not notice any rattling while on track. Bike seemed happy, pulling all day, however a little fluffy surgy in 4th-5th with throttle wide open.
When I returned home went for a short ride the next day to heat up oil to drain after break in.
Some nasty rattling I thought might be the starter clutch-no it checks out.
I was going to check the clutch next, but decided I could do that last, as the sound comes from the middle and high.
This would be the 3rd dino-oil change plus filter after installing new pistons, and probably 20 heat cycles (250-350 miles), no constant throttle position so far.
Head has been retorqued @ 50 miles, valves checked, stock cam chain removed and reset after last trackday.
Seems the spring gets stuck when the slotted screw is released, it rolls forward, puts some pressure on the chain, but I don't think it's enough.
When I try to turn the spring counter clockwise after tension is set, it's stuck, have use pliers to get it to release.
Hope it's not a bent valve or a connecting rod bearing causing the noise.
I ordered one from APE, it's on the way, just wondering what the proper procedure is for putting tension on the chain and how much.
I'm sure their will be instructions with the tensioner, but was hoping to hear some hands on advice, regarding how much tension is ideal.
An example would be- what kind of deflection (cam chain slack) between the cam sprockets should I see and whether or not to rotate the crank clockwise several times to see that same amount of slack between cam sprockets. Thanks for any intel.
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