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Valve cover gasket - install dry or coated/soaked in oil or something?

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    Valve cover gasket - install dry or coated/soaked in oil or something?

    Valve cover gasket - install dry or coated/soaked in oil or something?

    Want to void future scraping and tearing as I readjust valves.

    Thoughts?
    1981 GS750L - Owned since 1990 when graduated high school and since have been discovering all the things not disclosed by seller.
    1983 GS750E - bought in 2016 as a rough runner to use while rebuilding 81L and then to combine with ES to make one good one
    1983 GS750ES - bought in Toronto in 2015 on a lark as a non-runner, missing front cowling and exhaust - If you have a 1983 750ES front cowling let me know! Blue would be nice

    #2
    Wd40 works great. I've been able to remove the cover and reuse the gasket a couple of times. Prone to leaks after a few reuses though. Anyway, soak it w/Wd40 is my suggestion. Can't remember where I read that but it sure works.
    You may see a bit of smoke from hot W d on first startup but it goes away quickly.
    Roger

    Us states ridden (2024_10_06 18_48_44 UTC).png

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      #3
      I put a thin layer of grease on both sides of my gasket and it has come off OK a couple of times now. As Burque73 says it will start to leak after being compressed a few times.


      Mark
      1982 GS1100E
      1998 ZX-6R
      2005 KTM 450EXC

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        #4
        I use threebond to stick the gasket to the cover. Nothing on the engine side. They come off with the cover and will stand several valve check cycles.

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          #5
          Originally posted by mmattockx View Post
          I put a thin layer of grease on both sides of my gasket and it has come off OK a couple of times now. As Burque73 says it will start to leak after being compressed a few times.


          Mark

          Same here -- a thin coating of grease on both sides.

          It's hard to say what the limit is, and I haven't kept perfect track, but I know I've used an OEM gasket through at least five valve checks with no leaks. Pay attention to the torque specs and don't over-tighten and squash it, and they're surprisingly resilient.
          1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
          2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
          2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
          Eat more venison.

          Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

          Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

          SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

          Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bwringer View Post
            It's hard to say what the limit is, and I haven't kept perfect track, but I know I've used an OEM gasket through at least five valve checks with no leaks. Pay attention to the torque specs and don't over-tighten and squash it, and they're surprisingly resilient.
            Good advice here, the torque spec is very low and most everyone will over tighten them significantly without using a torque wrench.


            Mark
            1982 GS1100E
            1998 ZX-6R
            2005 KTM 450EXC

            Comment


              #7
              I've always used high vacuum silicone grease, because it withstands high temp and pressure without breaking down. I also have access to a ridiculous amount of this due to a former occupation so it may be overkill and way more expensive than other grease types without any appreciable differences.
              1982 GS850GL - Shaved seat foam and new seat cover; Daytona handlebars and Tusk risers; Puig "Naked" Windscreen\
              1978 KZ200 - Mostly original, hydraulic front brake swap, superbike bars; purchased at 7k original miles
              Track bike project: 2008 Hyosung frame w/ 97 gs500E engine swap (in progress)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Rust_to_Redemption View Post
                I've always used high vacuum silicone grease, because it withstands high temp and pressure without breaking down. I also have access to a ridiculous amount of this due to a former occupation so it may be overkill and way more expensive than other grease types without any appreciable differences.
                Yeah, I'd say that would be overkill. I'm not sure whether silicone grease could cause clutch issues.

                Just use the cheapest grease you have -- something translucent, not the stuff containing molybdenum. Wipe on a thin coat and you're good to go.
                1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                Eat more venison.

                Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                  Yeah, I'd say that would be overkill. I'm not sure whether silicone grease could cause clutch issues.

                  Just use the cheapest grease you have -- something translucent, not the stuff containing molybdenum. Wipe on a thin coat and you're good to go.
                  We used this stuff on gaskets that were under much more heat and pressure, and exposed to harsh chemicals, and it never broke down or melted. It's also resistant to veg/mineral oils. Point being it's not going to seep out of the gasket to ever get to the clutch. Never had issues in using it for 10 years in other bikes I've owned. Also allows you to get 5-10 re-uses out of a gasket if you torque it to proper spec.
                  1982 GS850GL - Shaved seat foam and new seat cover; Daytona handlebars and Tusk risers; Puig "Naked" Windscreen\
                  1978 KZ200 - Mostly original, hydraulic front brake swap, superbike bars; purchased at 7k original miles
                  Track bike project: 2008 Hyosung frame w/ 97 gs500E engine swap (in progress)

                  Comment

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