2017-09-12 22.15.31.jpg
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What destroyed my pistons?
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What destroyed my pistons?
Several months ago I opened my gs1100 up wide open for about a mile (about 150-160mph) and then it suddenly lost power. It had done that before and after I would let off, the bowls would fill back up with fuel and I was good to go. I then started running petcock in the prime position and that fixed it I thought. The motor was allready about 210 degrees from driving 85mph the last 40 miles at about 7000 rpm (factory gears). Anyways, this time the power never came back so I towed it home. I found two destroyed pistons. #2 and #3. Those will run hotter because they are the inside cylinders. I thought what surely happened was the factory petcock didn't keep up with my 33 smoothbores and leaned it out this time doing it in for good. But now I am thinking it might have been piston clearance and ring gap related too. I had about .0008" piston clearance on an MTC 1198 kit. MTC recommends .0005"-.0015" side clearance so I was in that range. My ring gap was about .014" top and .020" bottom ring. My A/F ratio was set at about 12.5 to 13.5 at WOT of course if the bowls were full. This bike had made over 100 passes at the local strip in the 10s with not one problem before this happened. Here is one pic and I will upload another one: Thanks!
2017-09-12 22.15.31.jpgTags: None
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Paul.S
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[QUOTE=Paul.S;2426843]The other picture. 2017-09-12 22.15.53.jpg[/QUOTE
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That look like oil starvation as there is no obvious pitting of the piston top and the skirt is obviously scoring.
Are you using HPo 750 gears?
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Paul.S
Originally posted by posplayr View PostDon't know enough looking at the damage to say what went first, but I would for sure get a Pingel. I had starvation problems with a stock bore, 0.340 cams, 4:1 and BS36 carbs.
With the Pingle I never starved the engine with sustained 135 on 1166cc (closed circuit track).
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Paul.S
[QUOTE=posplayr;2426847]Originally posted by Paul.S View PostThe other picture. [ATTACH=CONFIG]52643[/ATTACH][/QUOTE
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That look like oil starvation as there is no obvious pitting of the piston top and the skirt is obviously scoring.
Are you using HPo 750 gears?
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[QUOTE=Paul.S;2426849]Originally posted by posplayr View Post
Yes, it has 750 gears and oil pressure was more than 15psi at about 8000rpm.
Things happen fast, but that was my inclination. I had a 15 psi pressure gauge on the handle bar.
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Do you have a big oil cooler that is mounted ports down?
I think you probably subtract the cooler capacity from your oil pan level so you need to over fill by the cooler amount.
That is why some people mount the coolers upside down, the cooler does not drain when the engine is off increasing the oil capacity with the same crank case level.
I only used a small 550 oil cooler, but with the Series R/R and an oil sprayer on teh stator the engine stayed below 220-230 F in almost all conditions
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Paul.S
One more thing. If you use the universal ring gap charts, my top ring gap should be .0135" and bottom ring .016". The bore is 76mm. I called MTC and they recommended .016" top and .022" bottom. I guess I will go with MTCs recommendation to be safe when going back together. The rings new out of box measure .013" top and .019 bottom. I had new sleeves put in by MTC and my side clearance is on average .0012" with the tightest spot being .00075" and loosest spot .0015". Of course this is measured with generic brand micrometers and dial bore gauge so accuracy may be off a little.
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Originally posted by Paul.S View PostOne more thing. If you use the universal ring gap charts, my top ring gap should be .0135" and bottom ring .016". The bore is 76mm. I called MTC and they recommended .016" top and .022" bottom. I guess I will go with MTCs recommendation to be safe when going back together. The rings new out of box measure .013" top and .019 bottom. I had new sleeves put in by MTC and my side clearance is on average .0012" with the tightest spot being .00075" and loosest spot .0015". Of course this is measured with generic brand micrometers and dial bore gauge so accuracy may be off a little.
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Paul.S
Originally posted by posplayr View PostDo you have a big oil cooler that is mounted ports down?
I think you probably subtract the cooler capacity from your oil pan level so you need to over fill by the cooler amount.
That is why some people mount the coolers upside down, the cooler does not drain when the engine is off increasing the oil capacity with the same crank case level.
I only used a small 550 oil cooler, but with the Series R/R and an oil sprayer on teh stator the engine stayed below 220-230 F in almost all conditions
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Originally posted by Paul.S View PostMine has a lockhart oil cooler. Not sure what size. My oil temp gauge must be out of calibration because everyone complains about high oil temps but mine would allways cruise at 190 degrees and about 200-210 if you drove it hard on a hot day. The hottest it ever got was that 220 or so when the pistons let go. I live in Texas too. I did notice all the oil drain holes in the cases were ported.
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Paul.S
Originally posted by posplayr View PostYou should check the sensor, 190 is extremely cool for a big bore like that. It is probably not that far off so it suggests a big fat cooler robbing oil from the crank case when running.
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I would maybe try shooting that pic to Rapid Ray. Melted pistons tell a story. To me, that looks like detonation issue, but I am far from an expert. Seen a lot of snowmobile engines with pistons like that but 2-strokes are vastly different with burn downs.Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES
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