2700 mi. Valves, cylinders, rings?

[Guest]

82 gs1100g. 27k miles. I have an oil leak at the front right corner of the base gasket. I'll be pulling the head and cylinder to replace the base gasket and to repaint the head and cylinder. Compression is 150-160 (fully warmed up). Should I consider valve work, rings, etc? Bike runs good.

Thoughts?

[niclpnut]

You are there already. If you have the Scratch, you've got a fresh top end for the next 60k miles.

Nic

[GeeYes!]

Thanks for the input Nic. But if a new top end lasts for the next 60k mi, why would I do one at 27k ? Shouldn't the original top end be good for ~60k ? It could take 5 or 6 years for me to add 30k to the top end as-is. Is 150-160 lbs/sq in relatively low compression?

- Just trying to avoid rebuilding that isn't called for.

[Nessism]

With those compression numbers you are fine to reuse the rings.

As has been stated a thousand times before, OEM gaskets and seals are best and be sure to change out the valve stem seals.

[Sandy]

With that mileage I would only replace what is necessary. Those motors if not abused and maintained properly will easily go 100,000 miles so if it's running fine and the numbers are good just replace the gaskets (OEM of course). You should however do the valve seals while it's apart, they dry up with age.

[2BRacing]

82 gs1100g. 27k miles. I have an oil leak at the front right corner of the base gasket. I'll be pulling the head and cylinder to replace the base gasket and to repaint the head and cylinder. Compression is 150-160 (fully warmed up). Should I consider valve work, rings, etc? Bike runs good.

Thoughts?

Have you ever re-torqued the head? I had a small leak at the head gasket at front left side. I bought the bike new in 1981, and regularly did valve clearances and oil changes, but never re-torqued the head (yes, I know, my bad!).

Guess what? I found the left front head nut was looser than the others. After re-torqueing all of them, the leak has decreased to just a slight weep.

Perhaps you could try that first as well!

[Big T]

Thanks for the input Nic. But if a new top end lasts for the next 60k mi, why would I do one at 27k ? Shouldn't the original top end be good for ~60k ? It could take 5 or 6 years for me to add 30k to the top end as-is. Is 150-160 lbs/sq in relatively low compression?

- Just trying to avoid rebuilding that isn't called for.

Because various materials deteriorate with time, as well as mileage, especially true with seals. Right front is an odd place for a leak, so +1 on retorquing the head
150 lbs is great compression

I'd keep the rings and valves as is.
Seals and gaskets at tach drive and camchain tensioner would be good preventative maintenance while you're tearing it down.

[GeeYes!]

Thank all for the replies. I got the message on seals, gaskets, o-rings etc. and using OEM. I did re-torque the head bolts - went to 31ftlbs and still a seep at the right front corner. I'll report back once the top end work is done - I know others have had oil leaks at the base gasket.

[cornishgs]

Compression sounds good .whilst you have head off how about a quick lap of valves very slight and new valve seals as your seals have hardened by now if original. Rings sound good to leave alone.Also if retorqing head bolts haynes manual gives 15.9lbs ft where as suzuki gives 18.9lbs foot!!!!?? But check on these figure first .i might have remembered them wrong.

[cornishgs]

Thank all for the replies. I got the message on seals, gaskets, o-rings etc. and using OEM. I did re-torque the head bolts - went to 31ftlbs and still a seep at the right front corner. I'll report back once the top end work is done - I know others have had oil leaks at the base gasket.

Wow 31ftlb on m8 studs???

[cornishgs]

Wow 31ftlb on m8 studs???

Sorry misread original post thought we were talking about a gs 550 duh!!