Cam chain noise, is it as simple as adjusting the tensioner? 1980 GS1000G

[Guest]

Well I tried my piece of crap carb sync tool once again today and found out that two of the dial guages are totally unresponsive. So I had to keep moving the vacuum lines from the four cylinders back and forth using only the 2 working guages. The bike runs better, and I think they are somewhat synced in that my random high idle seems to be gone, but the whole procedure MUST be done again with a quality set of guages or a Carbtune. I have NEVER, NEVER seen such a piece of garbage tool sold anywhere. This thing is so cheap and fragile it probably self destructed just being mailed to me.

My other thread detailed some of the issues and my plan to make the Ebay "seller" give me a refund.

Again, the bike is running pretty good for now- but I'm pretty sure I have a slack timing chain at idle. As soon as the bike rolls off idle the noise goes away, as if the slack is being taken up and the bike pulls away smoothly with a lot of torque. My question to you "experts" is- is there an adjustment on the cam chain tensioner that can take up this slack and get me through maybe another month of short rides? (plan to REALLY go through the bike this winter)

As I've posted before, the bike has only 17k on it and I bought it from the original owner and paid a lot. It's not a 500 dollar piece-o-crap. I've poked around the forum for info on adjusting the cam chain tensioner without much success.

Is there any possiblity I can get myself in more mechanical trouble by addressing this now, just by doing an adjustment? I'd like to not have to take the bike all apart again, doing so is getting as common now as shaving every day.

Thanks, Mark

[Tom R]

You have an auto tensioner. Loosen the locknut and make sure the bolt is 1/4 turn out from tight tensioner rod.

[Mickeymoe]

Thanks Tom, but would you be so kind as to explain with a bit more detail? I HAVE spent time looking through the forum but I find articles about rebuilding them, taking the chain off etc. I know there is a simple adjustment or "check" to make, which is probably what you're refering to. Do you mean the screw side of the tentioner or the other side with the thumbweel thingy? (see pic from Ebay, mine is insalled on my bike )

Thanks, Markcc tensioner.jpg

[cowboyup3371]

On Basscliff's site - http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff - is a link to BWringer's website where he has a few how-to articles to include this one on the cam chain tensioner

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[GSXR7ED]

I like this informational thread.


Ed

[Tom R]

The only time you tighten that screw is when your installing the tensioner. Once it’s installed, you back the screw out a 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut... be careful the screw doesn’t turn with it and tighten against the rod again. The spring will apply pressure against the chain and the mechanism on the knob side keeps the rod / plunger from backing up. Since you have it apart you can play with it a bit... the only time you should be able to push the rod into the tensioner is when you turn the knob.

[Tom R]

Are you sure it’s the cam chain your hearing? Does it get worse as the bike heats up?

[Steve]

If the noise is at idle only, and goes away before 2000 RPM, it might be the infamous "cam walk". Just part of the character of these engines. No damage is being done, it won't get any better, and likely won't get any worse. My wife's bike had that when we got it. She has put on over 25,000 miles since then, it's still there, and not really any worse.

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[Mickeymoe]

Steve, yes, the sound does go away as soon as the bike rolls off idle, so maybe it is the "cam walk" scenario. Are there any additives or engine oils that can lesson the noise and/ or negative effects of the movement? The bike DOES need an oil and filter change so now would be a good time to swith to something that might help. The bike runs fine but I'm concerned that this noise is an indication that something internally is getting pounded which can't be good.

[Steve]

The noise happens because the thrust bearing surface(s) on at least one of the cams is worn a bit, allowing the cam to "walk" a bit sideways. As the engine speed goes up, there is more tension on the cam chain, which pulls it back to center, which stops the noise.

There was a thread several years ago by a member who showed how he did some custom machining to the cams and the caps that hold them to the head. That machining included making some new thrust washers to keep the cam centered. If I had the resources available, I might consider it, but I would really have to consider the price. There was no mention of cost, but I can't imagine it was cheap. Would it really be worth several hundred dollars just to quiet a noise that doesn't seem to matter all that much?

Before you add any "additives", remember that anything you add will have to be compatible with a wet clutch. Some additives that "make the oil slipperier" or "lessen friction" or whatever, might also reduce the ability of the clutch to transmit power.

Everybody has their personal favorite oil. Realistically, as long as it's a 10w-40 or 20w-50 and does NOT have "Energy conserving" on the API sticker on the back label, it should be good. Probably the overwhelming forum favorite is Rotella. Yes, it's an oil forumlated for diesel engines, but it has higher amounts of some ingredients that are being reduced or removed from typical automotive oils. Just a bit less of those ingredients than full-on motorcycle oils, but at a greatly reduced price. Depending on your preference, the "dino" version in the white jug is 15w-40, the synthetic version in the blue jug is 5w-40. The white jug is typically available at your favorite auto store or Wal-Mart for about $12 per gallon, the blue jug is about $20.

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