Clutch/cable

[Guest]

I’m wondering if anyone can answer a quick question that I can’t seem to answer with my own research. I’m new to bike engines. While riding my newly acquired ‘82 GS650 recently, the clutch cable snapped. I found a replacement online and have attempted to replace it. With no cable attached, I can move the clutch arm (on the splines that enter the transmission area) freely with minimal effort. Is this right? It seems to me that the arm should have some tension pulling it into the engaged position. It does not.

Prior to the cable breaking, the bike shifted just fine and the clutch engaged normally when releasing the lever. I’m really baffled...is it possible that something inside the transmission case also broke at the same time as the cable?

[Nessism]

Sounds normal.

[mhobryan]

I just replaced the clutch cable on my 850L. The lever will 'slop' backwards, but once you have the clutch adjusted correctly, there will be tension on the clutch springs and will take all of the slack/slop out. Hope this makes sense.

[BrianT]

I just replaced the clutch cable on my 850L. The lever will 'slop' backwards, but once you have the clutch adjusted correctly, there will be tension on the clutch springs and will take all of the slack/slop out. Hope this makes sense.

So, the arm going into the transmission case SHOULD have tension, yes? That's the behavior I expect based on car clutches...but I understand it may not apply here. In my bike's current state, if I don't attach the cable to that arm, it just rests wherever I put it. Disengaged position, engaged position. I feel like it should be putting itself in the engaged position with the cable disconnected. Maybe I'm wrong?

[Nessism]

Thread the cable end into the threaded lug on the engine case. It didn't break off did it? After the cable is attached to the case then put the cable ball through the matching bracket on the release arm. Last thing is to hook up the other end of the cable to the lever and adjust to get just the right amount of free play at the lever. Do this and report back.

[tom203]

As mentioned,there is a lug mount (under carbs) that anchors outer cable...you'll likely have to reposition clutch lever arm on its pivot to get proper throw. When all is correct, you will be able to push on clutch lever arm about 1/4 inch before you feel resistance of clutch plates. Mine looks like thisimage.jpg

[fixmybrokecomputer]

I think you're worrying too much. Put the cable on and adjust the slack out of it. Check for proper operation AFTER you're done. I'm sure you'll find everything is just fine.

[BrianT]

I think you're worrying too much. Put the cable on and adjust the slack out of it. Check for proper operation AFTER you're done. I'm sure you'll find everything is just fine.

So are you (and a few others) saying that the cable itself is what pushes the clutch arm into the engaged position? If so, I'll go ahead and connect it and try to get it adjusted right. I connected it once or twice yesterday and it just didn't seem right. But, again...I'm new to bike engines/transmissions. I expected the clutch to have internal springs that keep it engaged (and thus...the arm outside the case defaulting to the engaged position unless being pulled by the cable).

[BrianT]

As mentioned,there is a lug mount (under carbs) that anchors outer cable...you'll likely have to reposition clutch lever arm on its pivot to get proper throw. When all is correct, you will be able to push on clutch lever arm about 1/4 inch before you feel resistance of clutch plates. Mine looks like this[ATTACH=CONFIG]53459[/ATTACH]

Yes, that's how mine looks as well. Although, my arm probably pointed away from the center of the bike just a bit more than that with the previous cable. I asked this in another reply, but I just want to be sure I understand...you're saying the cable itself is all that engages the clutch when the clutch lever is released? There is no internal spring that should be applying force and keeping the clutch engaged?

[Nessism]

BrianT,

the following links provide info about the parts on your bike... https://www.partzilla.com/ ... http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

As with all clutches there are springs that hold the pressure plates together. As far as the clutch arm is concerned, there is no extra spring in the system to provide pressure on the arm. Be sure to not remove the release arm from the shaft it's attached to or you will have to index the proper position or the clutch won't work right.

[BrianT]

I just replaced the clutch cable on my 850L. The lever will 'slop' backwards, but once you have the clutch adjusted correctly, there will be tension on the clutch springs and will take all of the slack/slop out. Hope this makes sense.

Ok, so I didn't understand this completely upon first read. Looking back at pictures I've take of the bike when I first bought it, I can see the "resting position" of the clutch arm above the transmission area. You're right...the lever has extra movement backwards. Next warm day I get, I'll plan to hook the cable back up and test the operation. It just seemed so odd to be able to move it freely, and I thought that I was moving it between engaged and disengaged. It sounds/looks like it's just moving an extra distance past the engaged position. I'll post an update as soon as I get it reconnected.

[Brendan W]

So are you (and a few others) saying that the cable itself is what pushes the clutch arm into the engaged position? If so, I'll go ahead and connect it and try to get it adjusted right. I connected it once or twice yesterday and it just didn't seem right. But, again...I'm new to bike engines/transmissions. I expected the clutch to have internal springs that keep it engaged (and thus...the arm outside the case defaulting to the engaged position unless being pulled by the cable).

The cable pulls, unlike car hydraulic systems that push. Once the slack is out of the cable it pulls the arm to release the plates.

[chuck hahn]

The actuator arm the cable attaches too will swing around once the cable is removed or in your case breaks. Swing it pointing to the back of the bike till it stops..attache the new cable and adjust.

[jdvorchak]

rotate the clutch arm counter clockwise until you feel resistance. When you feel the resistance and can't easily move that lever counter clockwise, it should be lined up almost parallel to the front of the engine as shown in the previous pic that BrianT posted. When your cable snapped the spring pressure could have thrown that lever clockwise a full turn.

Now if your clutch points toward the rear of the bike, opposite of Brians pic, then just reverse my instructions turning the arm clockwise until resistance.