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78 GS750 Shifting problem After engine rebuild

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    78 GS750 Shifting problem After engine rebuild

    Hello, I am just finishing rebuilding my 1978 GS750. The entire engine has been disassembled, including splitting the crank case.

    The bike is back together now, however I am having shifting problems. The first time i started it, the bike was getting caught up on something (it wasn't running long). I pulled the oil cover off and noticed one of the shifting forks was out of place.

    Once that issue was taken care of, I was only able to get the bike into 1st and neutral. After searching around the forum, I realized that the shift shaft was one tooth off. I moved it to the correct place and now I have a false neutral, gear 3, 4 & 5, but it will not go into 1, n or 2.

    Does anyone know what could be causing the issue? My only thought is that the shift fork may have bent when it was misaligned. It shifted through all gears easily before I pulled it apart.

    I've double and triple checked that all of the forks are in the correct position and the cam stopper is resting in the correct place.

    IMG_2181.jpg

    #2
    I had a very similar problem, shifter prong was out of position. Took a while to get it right but keep playing with it until it lines up correctly. I swore I had it correct, took the side cover off over 5 times before I got it right. I was afraid I damaged something but all was good
    Last edited by SpecialK; 01-18-2018, 06:31 PM.

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      #3
      I was able to play around with it some more yesterday. I think the problem is more involved than just the prawl being out of alignment. I ordered a new set of shifting rods and forks. I'm going to swap them out on Sunday and see if that fixes the problem.

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        #4
        Look at page 41 of the service manual..see how the pawls are interlocked before you go doing other stuff and spend money


        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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          #5
          Thanks Chuck, I have the manual printed, and I've compared it closely. I ordered a set of shifting forks and rods for a total of $15, which should come in this evening. I'll mess around with it some more before trying to swap out parts. I'm hoping to have the problem solved some time tomorrow (we'll see if that actually happens though).

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            #6
            Latest update:

            I swapped out the shifting rods and forks. The forks would not move smoothly on one of the rods (the one with the two shifting forks attached to it).

            That may have been contributing to the shifting problems, however, it is still feeling the same as before I swapped out everything.

            I'm hesitant to put everything back together. As it stands now, I can have 1st and N, or if I manually turn the shifting barrel, it will go into 3rd, 4th, and 5th. This is all sitting still, but I have it on the center stand and I've been turning the rear wheel and the clutch shaft and it is not helping it shift.

            My question is, should I put everything back together and hope that the problem resolves once it's started and has oil circulating, or am I overlooking something? I've drained the oil 4 or 5 times already and I getting tired of disassembling and reassembling everything.

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              #7
              Slop oil on it before joining the cases..Im assuming they are split?? Anyway, be sure the bearings are seated squarely on the ends of the drum.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                I actually was able to do it without splitting the case, however, I did take out the engine, split the case and made sure everything was seated properly about a week ago, which did not solve the problem.

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                  #9
                  I think the next step is going to be reassemble, add oil let the bike run for a little while and see if shifting returns to normal. If it doesn't, I'm going to order a different transmission on eBay and just completely swap them out.

                  It's so close to being finished, if it would shift properly, all I would need to do is basic adjustments such as syncing the carbs and timing adjustments. I'm pretty frustrated with how long this is taking me to solve the problem.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by ptakattack View Post
                    Latest update:

                    I swapped out the shifting rods and forks. The forks would not move smoothly on one of the rods (the one with the two shifting forks attached to it).

                    That may have been contributing to the shifting problems, however, it is still feeling the same as before I swapped out everything.

                    I'm hesitant to put everything back together. As it stands now, I can have 1st and N, or if I manually turn the shifting barrel, it will go into 3rd, 4th, and 5th. This is all sitting still, but I have it on the center stand and I've been turning the rear wheel and the clutch shaft and it is not helping it shift.

                    My question is, should I put everything back together and hope that the problem resolves once it's started and has oil circulating, or am I overlooking something? I've drained the oil 4 or 5 times already and I getting tired of disassembling and reassembling everything.
                    This seems to be the source of the problem. Did you have the same issue with the original shift rod and forks? I'd try oiling the rod and fork holes to see if you could get the forks to slide better.
                    Jordan

                    1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                    2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                    1973 BMW R75/5

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                      #11
                      On the shift shaft (clutch side) the toothed plate has a window in it. When you install the shaft, you center the spring ends (in this window) over what looks like a smooth stud. This stud, might call it a pin, is adjustable. You never ever loosen this for any reason. It will cause the shifter shaft and the pawl assembly to not line up correctly.....Did you loosen or take it off???.....

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                        #12
                        I think I know what you are talking about, and it was removed. The entire engine was disassembled (minus taking the gears or the crankshaft apart). That is good to know that it is adjustable, I will play around with it tomorrow.

                        Hannibal:
                        The forks were not moving easily on the original rod that were installed, they move smoothly now that I have replaced the rod.

                        I haven't touched the bike today, so the oil pan is still off the bike and the clutch is removed. The engine was completly apart for about 3 months, I think it's possible that some of the moving parts on the transmission became bound up while it was apart.

                        This is my first time rebuilding an engine, so some of the things that a more experienced mechanic would have checked were not done prior to assembly (such as making sure all the gears on the transmission move as they are suppose to).

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                          #13
                          Post a pic of the shift shaft/pawl alignment with the trans in neutral.

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                            #14
                            This video is a few days old (before I swapped out a shifting rod) but still relevant because it is still doing the same thing.

                            in the video it is clicking down to 1st gear and up to N, but it will not go beyond N.



                            also, in the video, I am not turning the wheel or the clutch shaft. Even with turning the wheel and clutch shaft, it will not go above N.
                            Last edited by Guest; 01-23-2018, 12:56 PM.

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                              #15
                              Not sure this is relevent, but does the shift drum have a double hooked spring that attaches to the case webbing?
                              It's a lightweight spring maybe 2" long with longish hooks on both ends.

                              It's part #17 in the gear shifting oem part diagram.
                              I call it the shift detent spring.
                              GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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