New to me GS850

[Guest]

I bought this bike last week, picked it up from the shop where the PO had it. the shop was rebuilding the carbs, did a dyno and determined the clutch needed rebuilt. So that is what was done to it, before I got it. been making small trips around neighborhood. Today to it for my first extended ride. Everything was good, been having a hard time finding neutral. After about 30 min of riding felt like clutch was dragging while I had the lever pulled. After about another hour of riding, when at a stop would have to hold the brake to keep from inching forward. When I got home shut bike off and coasted into driveway with the clutch lever pulled, could feel the drag slowing me down. My other bike has a hydraulic clutch. Should the clutch need to be adjusted so soon?

[Big T]

You're working from the assumption that the "shop" knew how to properly adjust it in the first place.

How much free play is there at the lever?

[cowboyup3371]

If you haven't already, go to http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ and download the service manual for your bike. It will help me with knowing the proper procedure to adjusting your clutch

[USTrucker]

Big T your right about my assumption about the shop. I'll check the free play tomorrow.

Cowboyup thanks for the link.

[Redman]

Just checking to see if you have posted pic of your bike .... which we like to joke is required before anyone give any advise. har har har
Here we go...

1980 gs850

[Redman]

And... in this case, maybe the picture does provide some info relative to your situation/posting.

With short custom bars like that, maybe they rerouted the clutch cable in some manner that has some kink in it.
(and does appear that many things have been rerouted/relocated entirely for purpose of appearance.)

Pull in clutch lever and release the clutch lever (it should just snap back), while watching the arm down on the engine/clutch.

But mostly I suspect basic cable adjustment... or maybe the cable is fraying and about to completly break, .... look up by the lever, if that anchor thing doesnt pivot in the lever then the cable will fray and break right there.

.

[fixmybrokecomputer]

And... in this case, maybe the picture does provide some info relative to your situation/posting.

With short custom bars like that, maybe they rerouted the clutch cable in some manner that has some kink in it.
(and does appear that many things have been rerouted/relocated entirely for purpose of appearance.)

Pull in clutch lever and release the clutch lever (it should just snap back), while watching the arm down on the engine/clutch.

But mostly I suspect basic cable adjustment... or maybe the cable is fraying and about to completly break, .... look up by the lever, if that anchor thing doesnt pivot in the lever then the cable will fray and break right there.

.

That's what I'd tell you as well. It's amazing some of the less than stellar work coming out of motorcycle repair shops. I used to think they were the experts. With all of the horror stories I hear about their quality of service and my own experiences, my opinion is that they are very much hit and miss with regards to the work they send out the door.

[Motojoe2492]

That's what I'd tell you as well. It's amazing some of the less than stellar work coming out of motorcycle repair shops. I used to think they were the experts. With all of the horror stories I hear about their quality of service and my own experiences, my opinion is that they are very much hit and miss with regards to the work they send out the door.

With what I've heard I am iffy to even take my head to get resurfaced lol. I feel like the shops have preferences for whatever bike, limiting their drive to obtain knowledge about the odds and olds guys like us bring them. I would rather fack it up all on my own then pay someone else to do it!

Luckily I know a guy that has been working on Jap bikes all his life and now has a small vintage repair shop at his house. He does good work for good prices and knows a looottt.

[850 Combat]

For what it is worth, the OEM clutch cable is superior to the Motion Pro aftermarket one. Having purchased and used both, I find that you can actually see the Motion Pro cable housing compress when you pull the clutch. That reduces the effective pull of the cable at the release mechanism. Also, make sure you adjust it the way it says in the manual. It is possible to assemble the release mechanism such that the effective travel is reduced at the lever on top of the clutch cover, too. I won't go into how I know this.

[bwringer]

Agreed: OEM levers and cables are far superior to the absolute garbage peddled by Motion Pro and others. And they're often cheaper.

One other tidbit of info: if the shop installed aftermarket springs, the clutch pull force will be massive and the clutch will drag. Six fresh OEM springs and it'll be like buttuh.

[USTrucker]

Getting there with adjusting the clutch.

Ok so I apparently have an aftermarket clutch cable. The outer sheath is an adjustable one. I have shortened the outer so I have more free play at the lever. It feels better, but is still creeping when the bike is warmed up. Its like the cable is stretching as it warms. I had it to the point where it was stalling the motor with it in gear holding the lever at a light. I have it at the point now where it is still creeping but just ever so slowly. It also seems easier to find neutral now when down shifting. It just wont go into neutral from first gear.

[cowboyup3371]

Did you follow the adjustment procedure outlined in the service manual? It sounds like you will want to run through it again

[bwringer]

Is the force required to pull the clutch lever "super-manly"? You should be able to pull the clutch easily with two fingers. If it takes more than that, and/or if it's not silky-smooth, you've got aftermarket heavy-duty springs in there that will cause drag. Or you could have a cable that's run or adjusted incorrectly. Or both.

Hard to tell from here.