Clutch Visual Check

[Exponent]

Hi guys

Will you please have a look at these fibre and steel plate and let me know if they are still serviceable. These photos were taken as they came out - I will clean them up and re-oil them if they are still good for use.

Also does anyone have the length specification for the clutch springs?IMG_20180613_124428.jpg

[Exponent]

Photo of the steel plateIMG_20180613_124528.jpg

[Exponent]

The basket shows some grooves - they are shallow but I will file them down in while I have the opportunity. Any tips or what not to do?IMG_20180613_124712.jpg

[bwringer]

I wouldn't even bother measuring the springs -- just replace them with new OEM. They've been compressed for 36 years, and you can assume they ARE sagged and WILL cause your clutch to slip. They're cheap and it's just not worth doing the job over.

I'd scuff those steel plates with a Scotchbrite pad or similar and re-use them. Basically, just clean them up with a mild abrasive but don't remove material. It looks like there might be a bit of surface rust, so clean that up.

The fiber plates look OK. If the oil didn't smell like cooked clutch, I'd re-use them. Again, new springs are essential. Generally, GS clutch fibers pretty much last forever unless the clutch has been horribly abused or allowed to slip for a long time because of weak springs.

I also would not attack that basket with a file. From my screen on the other end of the planet it looks like shiny spots, not grooves. But you're the one with the basket in front of you, so it's impossible to say for sure.

Oh, and have I mentioned you should install new OEM springs?

Don't bother with aftermarket springs -- they're WAY too heavy and not needed. And they can cause problems with the clutch not releasing completely.

Also, many aftermarket clutch cover gaskets are way too thin, and can cause problems with the shift shaft binding on some bikes. An OEM gasket is your best bet, or if you're using aftermarket, make sure it's not one of the paper-thin imitations. The OEM gasket is a about 1mm thick; it's a very dense, not that flexible material. There are some aftermarket gaskets that are OK and made the same way, and some that are cut out on a plotter from a very thin material, about the thickness of a grocery bag. These thin gaskets can cause issues.

Plus, strongly consider a new OEM clutch cable and clutch lever. The aftermarket stuff is expensive junk -- it's unbelievable how much better and smoother the OEM stuff works, and OEM costs the same or less than the fake crap.

[Exponent]

Thanks bwringer - got all oem cable, springs and gaskets.

However with the clutch lever pulled in and the bike in first(engine not running) it is very tough going. Should the bike not be moving freely?

What I have done so far:
1) Cleaned the steel plates
2) Cleaned the slight gimmyness off the fibre pales
3) Soaked the fibre plates overnight
4) Filed the grooves that I could feel on the clutch hub and basket. (Is it normal that the grooves only appeared on some of the slots?)
5) Replaced the 6 clutch springs with OEM (And 1 bolt that snapped - slight over tightening.....)
6) Replaced the clutch cable with OEM
7) Adjusted the clutch cable

Assembled the clutch and replaced the clutch cover without the gasket (I wanted to test the clutch first before fitting the gasket)

Does anyone have any idea why it feels like the clutch wont fully disengage?

[bwringer]

No, the bike will not move freely even with the clutch lever pulled.

A significant amount of oil drag, especially when the engine is cold, is perfectly normal.

The bike will be difficult or impossible to push if it's in gear and you pull the clutch lever.

It sounds like you were able to push the bike a little, so I think the clutch is releasing as expected.