GS1100G (1982) Propshaft Bolts

[salty_monk]

Manual calls for some specific threadlock.. Is it eq. to blue loctite or red or something different? Any tips/Tricks to getting them fitted & torqued? Didn't seem room for the torque wrench when I took them off.

Maybe need a Crows foot & to do the sums to calculate the revised torque setting....

IMG_4447.jpg

[Nessism]

1363B = Threebond 1303. High strength but not permanent. https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Th.../dp/B0012TRO70

Not sure what the equivalent Loctite product would be. I've got a few different Threebond threadlockers but don't remember buying 1303. Maybe...

[salty_monk]

Hah - looks like Suzuki still list it under 1303 too (diff part number).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/99000-32030

I probably have something eq. or can buy a tube at that.

[Nessism]

I might have some. Sit tight until I can check in a little while.

[Redman]

I........................ Sit tight ....................

That a pun? (given the subject matter)

[salty_monk]

I doubt I'll be fitting it before the new year in any case...

[Nessism]

Got ya covered Dan.

[salty_monk]

Thanks - Engine is back in the frame. I laid it on it's side on some carpet, levelled it & then dropped the frame over the top. Very easy in the end & much easier to lift once it was in the frame.

I have a feeling I may need to borrow your "big box of bolts" at some point too.. some interesting fasteners on this thing.

[Jrgunn5150]

Thanks - Engine is back in the frame. I laid it on it's side on some carpet, levelled it & then dropped the frame over the top. Very easy in the end & much easier to lift once it was in the frame.

I have a feeling I may need to borrow your "big box of bolts" at some point too.. some interesting fasteners on this thing.

That's how i took mine out, was really manageable that way.

[bwringer]

I try to use new bolts whenever possible -- they come from Suzuki with pinkish threadlocker stuff in the threads. And they're specially hardened and an oddball length. These bolts are crucial and under a tremendous amount of strain, so it's not a good time for shortcuts.

Torquing these precisely is very tricky; there are torque wrench adapters that are basically a box end wrench, but to be honest I've always just used red Loctite and the "two good grunts" method if I have to re-use them.

[salty_monk]

Given our relative sizes I'd better do at least 3 grunts then! Thanks for chiming in. That was my original plan... I'll face it when I get there I guess.

[scratch]

Any tips/Tricks to getting them fitted & torqued? Didn't seem room for the torque wrench when I took them off.

Maybe need a Crows foot & to do the sums to calculate the revised torque setting....

Will be interested to know how you end up getting them torqued correctly when this happens... could a short wobble extension get it done?

[Jrgunn5150]

Will be interested to know how you end up getting them torqued correctly when this happens... could a short wobble extension get it done?

I'm pretty sure you could do it with a crowsfoot.

[bwringer]

To do this by the book, and apply proper torque while reaching the bolts, you'd need a box end 12mm torque adapter:


Snap this on your torque wrench, do a bit of math (since the adapter adds length, you'd need to set less torque; the correction factor is in the adapter instructions) and yank.

A crow's foot would not withstand the torque, and most are far too bulky to reach.

And in my experience, you can't reach them with a wobble or U-joint.


In reality, I just use a box-end wrench and pull it real hard. Add some red Loctite if I have to re-use the original bolts.

[salty_monk]

Looks like Motion Pro have a couple of options too.. Not sure I agree with the presumption that having the wrench at right angles to the adapter maintains the torque reading, there would be some difference for sure. (In the You TUbe video).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJGXF0/ref=psdc_559968_t2_B002OMMS5C

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFOEQc_Zngw