GS1000G Clutch adjustment Issues

[Guest]

Hey guys,
I have been working on the 1980 GS1000G. The previous owner put in EBC HD springs and shifting it became a wrist workout but it shifted fine minus the super heavy clutch. It needed the clutch plate gasket replaced so while I was in there I replaced the springs with OEM springs and a new OEM cable. The problem is now I cant seem to get the clutch adjusted properly. Over the years I have done this to three different GS's but I cant get this one dialed in. I adjusted the arm on the engine then tried to fine tune at the clutch handle. The bike seems to slip at higher RPMS and at lower RPMS like when turning, it seems to be partially engaged like the clutch isn't pulled in all the way and "chugs" like it wants to go but the clutch is 50% engaged. What are my options here? any other suggestions

[Steve]

Step 1: drop back 5 yards and PUNT.

Step 2: Adjust the cable at the handlebar lever and at the lower end for maximum slack.

Step 3: Remove the arm from the top of the clutch release rod.

Step 4: Rotate the release rod counter-clockwise to take up any slack.

Step 5: Pull as much slack as you can from the cable, put the lever back on the release rod. Note that it will point out at an angle to about the one o'clock position.

Step 6: Take up most of the slack with the adjuster on top of the crankcase so there is very little play at the handlebar lever.

Step 7: Finish adjusting slack at the handlebar lever.

.

[Gs1000g]

well update:
The clutch was better but is making a noise when the lever is pulled (engaged). I took it apart and the thrust washer/bearing on the clutch PAWL is non-existent. There is one needle left in it. I ordered a new one. Hope this makes it better

[Gs1000g]

well update:
The clutch was better but is making a noise when the lever is pulled (engaged). I took it apart and the thrust washer/bearing on the clutch PAWL is non-existent. There is one needle left in it. I ordered a new one. Hope this makes it better