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Feeler Gauge Wont Go Through Cam Lobes

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    #16
    Before you get rolling, I'd pull the shims (one at a time, of course) and measure them. Write down the measurements. It helps to be able to swap a shim from one valve to another as needed, but you'll also find your thinnest shim, which might -- MIGHT -- be thin enough to make measurements. Probably you'll wind up procuring shims twice, but that's not the end of the world.

    Keep track of the thickness of the shim you end up with for each valve. Since the valves were disturbed, it's probable that your clearances will change in your next 3,500 miles, and having that shim 'map' will come in really handy next time around. (Imagine how handy it'd be right how, for example...).
    and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
    __________________________________________________ ______________________
    2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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      #17
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      Ed, have you ever compared clearance on hot and cold engines? I am curious how much it changes, but have never been quite curious enough to take the time to do it myself.

      .
      I've never done a hot check Steve. Too lazy. The reason for doing the fan cool down is because I help a local member do maintenance on his 850 and we usually drink a beer (or two) while draining the oil and cooling the engine with a fan before we dig into the valves. Most of the time the valves are okay or maybe just one or two need a shim.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        I've never done a hot check Steve. Too lazy.
        You sound about as ambitious as me.

        Thanks for the reply.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
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          #19
          "Feeler Gauge Wont Go Through Cam Lobes" Almost none will. but most of the time they go under the lobes between the shims and lobes

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            #20
            Thanks guys.
            Jordan

            1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
            2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1973 BMW R75/5

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              #21
              Originally posted by robertbarr View Post
              Before you get rolling, I'd pull the shims (one at a time, of course) and measure them. Write down the measurements.
              This is a good point. Measure the shims, do not trust the stamped size, ocassionally you'll find a bad one.
              -Mal

              "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
              ___________

              78 GS750E

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                #22
                I read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.

                I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.

                Any reason why I shouldn't?
                Richard
                sigpic
                GS1150 EF bought Jun 2015
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                Previously owned: Suzuki GS750 EF (Canada), Suzuki GS750 (UK)(Avatar circa 1977), Yamaha XT500, Suzuki T500, Honda XL125, Garelli 50
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                  #23
                  There's no reason why you cannot do that just be careful they are not taken back too much although I have seen that happen and a small amount filed off the collets/ keepers to get the clearance required.
                  The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                  1981 gs850gx

                  1999 RF900
                  past bikes. RF900
                  TL1000s
                  Hayabusa
                  gsx 750f x2
                  197cc Francis Barnett
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                    #24
                    Originally posted by londonboards View Post
                    I read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.

                    I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.

                    Any reason why I shouldn't?
                    The workshop manual details how to do this and gives the maximum amount that can be taken off.
                    79 GS1000S
                    79 GS1000S (another one)
                    80 GSX750
                    80 GS550
                    80 CB650 cafe racer
                    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by londonboards View Post
                      I read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.

                      I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.

                      Any reason why I shouldn't?
                      If you got your head done at a respectable head guy (NOT car places) im talking about people who know there stuff. They will cut ure valve seats and valves and trim the tip aswell so when it goes back in there is minimal stuffing around with shims. If there is major fiddling around you took it to the wrong place.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by sharpy View Post
                        If you got your head done at a respectable head guy (NOT car places) im talking about people who know there stuff. They will cut ure valve seats and valves and trim the tip aswell so when it goes back in there is minimal stuffing around with shims. If there is major fiddling around you took it to the wrong place.
                        The biggest sin some of these guys commit is not redoing the slight bevel on the tip edge. As received, the sharp edge left will rip a new stem seal when installing the valve...

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