Keep track of the thickness of the shim you end up with for each valve. Since the valves were disturbed, it's probable that your clearances will change in your next 3,500 miles, and having that shim 'map' will come in really handy next time around. (Imagine how handy it'd be right how, for example...).
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Feeler Gauge Wont Go Through Cam Lobes
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Before you get rolling, I'd pull the shims (one at a time, of course) and measure them. Write down the measurements. It helps to be able to swap a shim from one valve to another as needed, but you'll also find your thinnest shim, which might -- MIGHT -- be thin enough to make measurements. Probably you'll wind up procuring shims twice, but that's not the end of the world.
Keep track of the thickness of the shim you end up with for each valve. Since the valves were disturbed, it's probable that your clearances will change in your next 3,500 miles, and having that shim 'map' will come in really handy next time around. (Imagine how handy it'd be right how, for example...).and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
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Originally posted by Steve View PostEd, have you ever compared clearance on hot and cold engines? I am curious how much it changes, but have never been quite curious enough to take the time to do it myself.
.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostI've never done a hot check Steve. Too lazy.
Thanks for the reply.
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sharpy
"Feeler Gauge Wont Go Through Cam Lobes" Almost none will. but most of the time they go under the lobes between the shims and lobes
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Originally posted by robertbarr View PostBefore you get rolling, I'd pull the shims (one at a time, of course) and measure them. Write down the measurements.-Mal
"The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
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I read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.
I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.
Any reason why I shouldn't?Richard
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There's no reason why you cannot do that just be careful they are not taken back too much although I have seen that happen and a small amount filed off the collets/ keepers to get the clearance required.The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
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Originally posted by londonboards View PostI read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.
I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.
Any reason why I shouldn't?79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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sharpy
Originally posted by londonboards View PostI read recently, that it's quite acceptable to skim the ends of the valve stems, to shorten them and make it less necessary to find the unobtainium thin shims.
I'm thinking to have all mine skimmed, as the head is apart, then I can use up my box of thick shims and have some play available for when the gap gets smaller again.
Any reason why I shouldn't?
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Originally posted by sharpy View PostIf you got your head done at a respectable head guy (NOT car places) im talking about people who know there stuff. They will cut ure valve seats and valves and trim the tip aswell so when it goes back in there is minimal stuffing around with shims. If there is major fiddling around you took it to the wrong place.
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