bike flooded, now what?

[mrhedges]

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This is what the oil looks like BTW after the third oil change. I put a splash of seafoam in it then rode it around the block, let the motor get to operating temp, let it cool for 30 minutes, then drained it.

[Nessism]

Still quite a bit of water in the oil. That sucks. I'm not sure what to suggest other than just keep doing the oil changes. It must be getting expensive... Maybe some 30 weight non detergent oil? Something cheap that won't ruin your clutch plates.

[fbody_mike]

That milkshake of oil and water is some tough stuff, it sticks to everything and doesn't come out easily. If it doesn't look better soon I think I would pull the valve cover, clutch cover, stator cover and oil pan off and clean each with a solvent, then spray as much solvent in the rest of the engine as I could. That is the extreme though, its a lot of work so some oil changes while getting everything hot may be better if it improves over time.

Just to think outside the box. We have probably all had the crankcase full of gasoline that wasn't known to use when started the motor up. I wonder if adding a pint of gasoline to the crankcase would help speed up things. Its risky, but my sight glasses were always so clean after a carb float stuck and the oil got some fuel in it.

Or maybe, like I saw on that show from Wheels through Time, they put a hot plate, the type for cooking, under the engine of really old bikes that have sat in barns for decades. They get everything hot in the engine to help get out oil that has petrified.

[mrhedges]

Just to think outside the box. We have probably all had the crankcase full of gasoline that wasn't known to use when started the motor up. I wonder if adding a pint of gasoline to the crankcase would help speed up things. Its risky, but my sight glasses were always so clean after a carb float stuck and the oil got some fuel in it.

Or maybe, like I saw on that show from Wheels through Time, they put a hot plate, the type for cooking, under the engine of really old bikes that have sat in barns for decades. They get everything hot in the engine to help get out oil that has petrified.[/QUOTE]

I just put some seafoam in the oil and the sight glass cleared up. I'm going to put some gentle miles on it and see if the seafoam doesn't help on this next change.

On a sidenote I went to the autozone by my house to try to price out some cheapo oil and Rotella was by fare the cheapest and it's on sale, $35 for 2.5 gallons. I could try to go to wallmart, but autozone is much closer to my house.

[1978GS750E]

You might want to try adding a small amount (1/2 Qt.) of automatic transmission fluid into the next oil change. ATF is very good at cleaning things! Ever see inside of an automatic transmission? I know it helps with oil buildup and sludge (bought a truck that looked like it never had the oil changed once!). Just might help loosen things up.

[Rob S.]

I would give the hot plate on high and oil filler neck open a few days to try. Doesn't sound like it could harm anything.

Otherwise, a pallet of motor oil delivered to your house seems like the way to go. Maybe skip a filter every two or three changes to save a few bucks.

Site window and old oil get clearer, run it a little harder, hotter and faster, and I'll keep my fingers crossed...

Good luck!

[mrhedges]

Hey everyone little update:

After this last oil change I topped it off with a little seafoam (about a quarter bottle) and took it around the block. I kept it under 35 and under 4k rpms. Seemed fine so I took it a bit further about 1 mile to get gas and visit a friend who has a motorcycle shop in her garage. While we were catching up she pointed to my bike and said "looks like your leaking something" on closer inspection it was dribbling water from the airbox! Did I just accidentally use my motorcycle to distill water? I'm thinking water cooked off in the engine turned to steam, went through the breather tube and cooled down in the airbox and turned back into water? The sight glass is much clearer and the oil no longer looks like coffee with milk in it. I obviously need to change again because I don't want to leave seafoam in the engine. But it seems we're getting somewhere

Lets discuss the next thing which I'm surprised nobodies mentioned: electronics! The wiring harness is orginal, the previous owner replaced the coils and rectifier everything else is original. Should I be concerned these vintage electronics just took a bath? I let the bike sit out for 3 days in the sun before attempting to start but is there someway to test these things? Everything is working as it should and as it did before but it is a bit worrysome.

[Gorminrider]

Do check your valve cover. I bet there's mucky slurry inside the top...but then too, I've only dealt with antifreeze..

The coil and solenoid and solenoid are pretty well sealed in their casings..but of course you can be concerned! I have doubts you can do much for them if they leaked beyond wiping at the casings...Just hope they stayed tight.

If your floodwater wasn't pure water, and corrosive (septic fields?) you'll get an indication pretty quick looking at the light sockets .. due to the mix of electricity+copper,brass steel,zinc, ...the zinc will show as powder-it comes out first. Your copper wire may go black...

You can get in there and clean-wipe em all off for sure.

[Big T]

Ride it farther the next time, the water dripping out is what you want to achieve at this point

As for the electrics, pull every connection, DeOxit, then dielectric grease

I'd pull the left cover and clean the stator, then the right side and the ignition

[Nessism]

No disrespect to Big T but negative on the dielectric grease. It's not necessary and just makes a mess.

[Big T]

Ed, I was thinking of any remaining contaminates from the flood

[mrhedges]

Thanks everyone for their help. The bike is running and back on the road with all the water out of the oil. It only took three oil changes and I think seafoam helped alot. Based on everyone's suggestions I'm going to replace the brake fluid and regrease the steering bearings.

[Big T]

Swing arm bearings also!