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It all started with a slight tick...

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    It all started with a slight tick...

    ... and by the time I make the 40 mile ride home it's a little more than a tick... As the picture shows it appears the cam cap bolts came loose. Yeah, no... Found two broken bolts (front) and two bolts containing the threads from the head (rear)

    Replacement head is shipping. I did see some slight scouring in the journal itself. I haven't looked any deeper as night fell.

    Since I am going to be down into the jugs (broken tensioner bolt and reseal) if any of you guru's out there would like to share a couple of insider tips I would be thankful. I am looking for the tips that I am not aware of since this is my first inline 4 from the 70's that I've had the pleasure to tear into this far...(I'm actually 10 years older than the bike thank you!)

    Aside from the multiple broken bolts this engine looks pretty good.

    BACK STORY ---> It all started when I traded for this '77 GS750B. Didn't run, no spark but complete w/extras including a side shaft 5.5hp Honda that runs LOL. Diagnose defective coils. Ordered, replaced, runs. Fouls plugs like I own NGK... Pull the carbs, rebuild (thanks o-ring dude, you done good!!!), re-install, tune with one missing restrictor for the vacuum gauges, runs fair, not fouling plugs. Idle is sketchy but do-able. Take out for the weekend. Ride her with enthusiasm. Starts the tick. Figured the T.C. tensioner needs addressed. eb*y the goods. Pull the carbs (step up on the pilots/float bowl gaskets) install completely resealed T.C. tensioner. Start engine, still a pronounced tick and the carbs are f'n killing me. Pull carbs and Sunday breakfast on my counter top was a bowl of oatmeal, mug of green tea, a flashlight and four carbs pulled completely apart because the slides couldn't close completely. I am not sure the technical name but I'm calling it the dog bone that connects throttle bracket to the slide, the spring inside was maintaining tension, putting the dog bone in a bind causing the slide to ride up in it's bore. Fix this issue with my trusty dremel and I have the slides dialed in, up, down and wot (1mm above) adjusted perfect. But before we put this on lets pop the valve cover for inspection.

    I know sit before you with a set of dialed in carbs and this picture.

    ... and $300 dollars worth of replacement parts/tools/goodies randomly showing up in my mail

    08.25.2019 297.jpg
    Current:
    1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
    1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
    1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
    1998 Chevy C2500
    1999 Rav4

    #2
    I think those are fairly high rated bolts did a PO stress them by doing a bad tightening sequence after a cam removal? Not over torqued but with the cams askew in the head a linear pull as opposed to over twisting them?
    1983 GS 550 LD
    2009 BMW K1300s

    Comment


      #3
      Cipher,

      That's a good question. I don't feel as if the PO was mechanically inclined enough to know how to remove the valve cover. I believe he couldn't get it running this is why he parted ways with it very cheaply... it would foul 2 plugs within 15 miles of normal surface street riding. Any longer and it wouldn't run.
      However, I do believe somewhere, someone, over-torqued something, somehow. I believe the rears were weak causing the fronts to hold the load. There is no way those front bolts were broke first as I've had some seriously spirited rides on this girl and I have a hard time imagining the rears holding that well. When I say it started quickly, I was riding about 85 heading into Jax and when I hit the surface streets it started in and I got my errands out of the way and booked it home...

      But I'm no metallurgist, just a mechanic

      How this happened is not something I'm loosing sleep over. Now the time it's going to take to repair...
      Current:
      1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
      1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
      1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
      1998 Chevy C2500
      1999 Rav4

      Comment

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