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Valve ticking?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
- Torrance, CA
You need to back off the lock screw enough to allow the plunger to move out fully and act freely. Don't think you can back it out too much other than if it falls out.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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To me, it serves no purpose other than to test that the tensioner is working correctly after it's installed.
if you want, you can turn the bigknob (a little! maybe Try turning the big knob next time you adjust valves to see what i mean) and the camchain tensioner will relax a little if the camchain is moving....some people even eschew the automatic function and effectively make it into a manual tensioner by setting the lockscrew when they "like the feel" of the camchain turning the knurled knob. Maybe it saves wear on the tensioner blade too? oh well.
Try turning the big knob next time you adjust valves...
Your cam chain only stretches when it wears. The pushrod only goes in against the blade to take up that wear. It's not much-the pushrod never will move much in the lifetime of a camchain.Last edited by Gorminrider; 03-09-2020, 01:34 PM.
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Update!
Thanks for all the help. After removing the cams and inspecting everything I could think of, I didn't see anything wrong. I happened to pick up the intake cam by the sprocket and felt the cam wiggle. Just like three years ago, a sprocket screw had become loose. I'm just glad I recognized a foreign noise and stopped riding. This saved me from snapping the chain again and all the issues that followed.
I removed both screws on the intake cam sprocket, cleaned off the oil, and reassembled with Loctite blue (242). I put it all back together and the noise was gone. I've done about 50 miles since then and all seems well.
I used Loctite when I fixed this the first time, but I'm guessing I didn't clean the parts well enough for it to work as intended. I'll recheck valve clearances after a few hundred miles and double check the sprocket screws. Since my bike seems to hate these screws, I'll just check and tighten them every time I check valve clearances and hopefully I won't be this close to killing my motor again.
Thanks again for the help!Jordan
1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1973 BMW R75/5
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
- Torrance, CA
Threebond T1360 is rated for high temperature. https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Me.../dp/B00230HCO2Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Wow! That's good news! You don't want a bolt bouncing around in there! I try to "help"- we all do but it just goes to show...there's always a possibility that doesn't come immediately to mind. Good on you for keeping at it when you knew something was wrongo
And see? now there's a tip on Loctite/ and Threebond! It's why I read these.
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