Before I start clutch work....

[Rich82GS750TZ]

25400 miles on the bike.
Not really a new issue but each time I go for a ride, the first time I kick it down to first, the bike lurches pretty hard. I’ve gotten used to it to a point so I’m ready to be on the brakes and feed gas to not stall. I want to fix this. I believe the clutch is also slipping a bit from 3-4, and 4-5 , more so if I’m pulling relatively hard up through the gears. Both conditions tend to improve as things warm up.

I Think it may be time to inspect the clutch and see what I can see. 1st time so looking for some guidance. I used to run any old 10w-40 oil. 150 miles ago I changed oil to one that is actually MA-2 spec. It’s Walmart’s brand, I know, not the best, but should be ok, right?

Clutch cable is adjusted as per the owners manual. Factory service manual isn’t much good for this, unless I’m just missing something. I do have the Clymer’s which covers 8v and 16v 750s. It’s a bit rough to decipher which one it’s referring to sometimes, but I think it should get me through. Ive tried to read up on clutch issues from past threads, someone please tell me if I’m on the right track.

I guess what I’m wanting to know is:
Is there a possible diagnosis that I’ve missed before opening up the clutch cover?

If I need to open it up, can I do so without draining the oil, with the bike on the side stand. I don’t want to drain the oil unless I have to. Just me trying to be frugal.

Am I likely to have to replace the drive plates? At partsoutlaw, 8 OEM plates @ $15.48=$123.84. + OEM gasket. I see sets of drive plates on Ebay from $40-$90/set of 8. Friction materials vary. I don’t know if any of them are any good.

not looking to start an oil war, but if you must..... I’m sure I didn’t do my clutch any favors by running reg oil for years.

[Steve]

Take a look at the back label of your old oil. Look specifically at the API 'donut'. If it says anything about "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving", you have reason to be concerned. If there is no mention, don't worry about it. Until very recently, there were no 10w-40 oils that had that label, they were all 30w and thinner.

Your clunk going into gear is somewhat normal, but there are varying degrees of "clunk". If your clutch is mis-adjusted on the loose side, it's possible you are simply not getting the plates separated enough. It might also be a matter of timing. Wait a couple of seconds after pulling the lever before pushing on the shift lever.

Slipping under throttle is likely just the clutch springs. Use OEM springs only, do NOT go for any "heavy-duty" springs. A set of six springs is only about $20, plus the gasket.

You can, indeed, pull the clutch cover with the bike on the side stand and not lose any oil.

.

[93Bandit]

I don't know if it vary's between models, but the oil level on my bike was at the F line (when checked with the bike on the center stand) and I pulled the clutch cover with the bike on the side stand. Oil did run out, I don't remember how much but I did have to top it off. I'm going to have to do this again because my clutch is starting to slip, and last time I pulled the cover off I didn't have a gasket handy so I used RTV to put the cover back on and it didn't seal very well.

[93Bandit]

Take a look at the back label of your old oil. Look specifically at the API 'donut'. If it says anything about "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving", you have reason to be concerned. If there is no mention, don't worry about it.

Steve, do you know what additives have been removed or added to achieve this "energy conserving" oil?

[storm 64]

Oh Boy! A Oil Thread ! 😯

[rphillips]

Started to put this in earlier. Roll your bike's tires up on a 1", or better yet, 2" board before removing the clutch cover. To lean farther and assure no oil leaks. Been there, done that.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Started to put this in earlier. Roll your bike's tires up on a 1", or better yet, 2" board before removing the clutch cover. To lean farther and assure no oil leaks. Been there, done that.

great tip (pun intended). Thank all, I’ll order springs and a gasket before I open it up. Might play with the adjustment a bit more before I do that.

[Carter Turk]

Might want to check for ding marks from the clutch fiber plates on clutch hub and inner hub, while your in there.
If they're notable notches or dings, it might explain the dragging in first gear.

A bigger job than just replacing springs n plates as certain technique is needed to remove the clutch nut.
A narrow file can be used to round off the edges of any pronounced dings, and doing this in place w/o removing hub would make removing file shaving difficult.

Maybe you'll get lucky an not have to do that at all ,just something to look at when the plates are removed.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Might want to check for ding marks from the clutch fiber plates on clutch hub and inner hub, while your in there. If they're notable notches or dings....A bigger job than....A narrow file can be used...Maybe you'll get lucky an not have to do that at all ,just something to look at when the plates are removed.

I’ve read about and seen pics of notches worn into the clutch plate housing where the drive plate claws fit. If I see that, I’ll seek further advice on how exactly to smooth those out.

I’ve ordered 6 springs from partsoutlaw and 2 gaskets, found a deal on eBay, 2 OEM gaskets for $8.99.

For now, as an experiment, I’ve taken all the slack; 2-3 mm, out of my clutch cable adjustment at the lever end. Now when I hold in the lever and kick it down to first, not near as much of a perceptible lurch, and the bike did not seem to want to stall.

When I have the bike on center stand and running, and I disengage the clutch, and kick it down to first, continuing to pull the clutch lever, it’s my understanding that the motor will turn the wheel. But how hard? Should I be able to stop it with my foot? Or is that a foolish thing to try to do.

Maybe I’m looking for an issue that doesn’t exist. Maybe I feel like I should open the clutch cover because of my perceived issue, or just because I’ve never looked in there, and I can’t seem to leave well enough alone.

If I need clutch drive plates, as I will determine with a caliper vs. the shop manual specs, buy OEM for $124?, or one of the many aftermarket sets on eBay for $40-$90? Which one?

I’m going to go for a ride and see I can feel any slipping. Maybe I don’t even have a problem.

[Redman]

.....
If I need clutch drive plates, as I will determine with a caliper vs. the shop manual specs, ...........

My expereince with slipping clutch (I noticed at high speed high rpm shifts) was that the fibre plates (sometimes called friction plates) were within the thickness spec, but the friction material (probably original) was hard-brittle and glazed over shiney. I replaced the fibre plates and springs, and OH Man, what a difference. Was immeaditly apparent, like I had to learn to use the clutch all over again, that the clutch had been slipping a lot more that I had been aware of.

Others may say that replacing the springs will take care of all your slipping, and maybe so. You can try that.
Also inspect the surface of the friction material. If it it is original yet, and you are going to have the bike for more years........

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Dave, do you remember if you used OEM Suzuki friction drive plates or some other?

I do plan to have this bike a long time.

[rphillips]

Bike on center stand, in gear, clutch disengaged, you can stop the wheel with some pressure on your toe on the tire. Probably wouldn't want to stop it with your hand, but after stopped can easily hold it by hand. Most here like new OEM everything, & you can't go wrong that way. But when I saw the fibers were glazed, but well in spec. I scuffed them back up with an orbital sander, only took a touch & they worked as good as new. Also have used aftermarket plates to replace broken OEM's as needed. If 2 plates were broken, I'd replace 2, if the others were still OK. Also additives such as "Slick 50", Prolong, or ZMax will cause the wet clutches to slip. Also the dogs on your plates will probably be slightly flattened, where they contact the hub, don't be alarmed, I think they all do it. Just like a chain against the sprocket, metal to metal with pressure, it will distort. As always, Just my opinion

[Baatfam]

Dave, do you remember if you used OEM Suzuki friction drive plates or some other?

I do plan to have this bike a long time.

OEM is best. I used them in my drag bike for years without issue.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Went for a ride. Still lurching hard on the first shift down to 1st. Gets better as it warms up. Still slipping a bit on each upshift through the gears when accelerating relatively hard. Clutch cover comes off tomorrow. Then I’ll see what I can see. Will post pics as I go if I need help. Thanks all

[Redman]

Dave, do you remember if you used OEM Suzuki friction drive plates or some other?
.....

That was way back, before I knew the collective wisdom from here.
Used Veshrah (pack and original disc still clogging up work bench) (should do something about that).
Have to ask dpep how it is holding up.