Before I start clutch work....

[wymple]

Under advise from I can't remember who, I bought a set of aftermarket heavy duty springs, and used 1/2 of them. There are 6, and I replaced every other spring. No heavy clutch pull, no slippage, must be 5 years, now. The other three are still in my toolbox.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

6 OEM springs and gasket ordered and in transit. I’m gonna leave the cover on ‘til I got those, so I can ride as the opportunity arises. We’re still allowed to ride, for now. Once I open it up, I’ll determine if the clutch drive plates are just glazed and need to be scuffed-up, or if they need replaced. I’ll also see if I need to file out any grooves worn into the plate housing.

[markla]

i,ll be honest if your taking the clutch cover off you only want to do it once so drain the oil get a set of vesrah clutch plates and the clutch plate holding tool so you can undo the hub nut easily with no dramas maybe look at getting a clutch cable oem not a replica as cables do stretch over time.

I did this to mine before christmas and the difference is amazing especially when dropping down a gear and opening the throttle.
Last thing you want to do is after doing springs is to go through all that again to replace clutch plates.

With the lockdown going on over here i,m in the garage tinkering and cleaning changed the airbox easy to get off not so easy to get on.

[erki52]

If the bike's on the side stand you don't need to drain the oil.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I got bored enough today to take off the clutch cover, even though Partsoutlaw has only sent me 5 of the six clutch springs I ordered, so far. Ive got some observations and questions:

Outer and inner baskets have marks, but no real grooves that I think I need to worry about that could keep drive or driven plates from moving freely.


I’ve read about the steel driven plates being stamped so have a rounded side and a flat sharp side, and that it’s a good idea to orient them the same way on reinstall, maybe better with the sharp side of the plate toward the motor. My steel plates are not all in the same order. I’ve noticed notches in the end of one claw of each drive plate. There also appears to be no consistent orientation of these notches. I’m holding all plates in order of removal, motor side on left. I have rotated the plates to line up the claw notches, to show the random orientation. I have not been able to read anywhere, the significance of the notches. Should these be oriented a certain way on reinstall? Or put everything back the way it was. (I have no way to clock them the same as they were removed)


I’ve read and tried to find good pics of what a “glazed” friction plate looks like. I wouldn’t know a glazed plate from a glazed donut. So I’ve dried the oil from the plates show below. Do they look glazed? If so, what’s the best method and grit paper to use to dress them? Drive plates are in middle of spec for thickness and claw width. I can detect no distortion in the steel driven plates. If I need to replace the drive plates, I’d like a good aftermarket recommendation.


TIA

[Big T]

While you're in there, confirm that the hub nut is tight

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Will do. Any thoughts on the other stuff, Big T?

[rphillips]

I didn't remember seeing those notches on any of the clutch plates I've dealt with, just went out & looked at an old set in the garage & they don't have them. Just guessing yours are not OEM. Your plates don't look glazed at all, but a little rub with some 200 or finer sandpaper, on both sides, won't hurt a thing. Grooves in hub just look normal, to me. Also just to say, my wife has a Kawasaki ZL600 Eliminator. She had trouble pulling the clutch lever. I removed 3 of the 6 clutch springs so it would be more comfortable for her. I rode it pretty hard, trying to feel the clutch slipping, to be sure it wasn't causing any problems. In my testing I never felt it slip even at over 100 mph in 5th gear. Good luck

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I found a full 8 disc set of OEM friction drive plates on eBay for @$60 delivered. That’s half of what I saw them sold for elsewhere. Hopefully they’re the real deal. Then I’ll at least know I’m putting good plates back in.

[Carter Turk]

, I’d like a good aftermarket recommendation.

I've used FBG (Fast by Gast) fibers in the past with good results, that is if the 750 uses the same clutch plates as a 1100.

I thought it did, but could be wrong, it's been 37 years since I had my 1980 GS 750.

They were recommended for being similar to OEM, more so than Barnett or EBC.

You already found replacements anyway, but for future reference $9ea.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

$9 x 8 = $72 plus tax and shipping = @$80. So more than I spent. But I’ll keep it in mind. Thanks Carter.

[bwringer]

I've used EBC clutch fiber plates with no issues on various bikes when OEM wasn't available.

Vesrah has also worked OK, but that was many years ago, before Vesrah's general quality went into the crapper. I would not risk any Vesrah components nowadays.


But I'll splash out for OEM every time if I can get them. As Baatfam mentioned, that's what the drag racers use.

I've encountered a few bikes with Barnett "extra plate" clutch kits installed back in the day, and they're absolutely dreadful. They can also damage the clutch hub. No idea why people thought these things were the hot ticket. The '80s were a weird time...


Anyway, your clutch hub looks great, so I suspect new OEM fiber plates and OEM springs will make you very happy.

I'd also replace the clutch cable with new OEM; even if yours is original, I bet a new one will have much lower friction. Well worth the modest cost. (Aftermarket cables are junk... don't even go there.) It'll be like buttuh. Replace the lever with new OEM (yep, aftermarket levers are pure junk) while you're at it, too -- quite often the cable hole is worn egg-shaped, which causes friction and can break the cable.

And since we're on the topic, only use OEM gaskets. If you coat both sides of the gasket with a bit of grease, you can re-use it many times (not that you'll need to). Aftermarket gaskets are often thinner, which can goof up the spacing for the shifter shaft and cause other issues.


Your bike has the actuator in the clutch cover, and these are generally trouble-free.

For other GS models with the actuator on the other side of the bike under the sprocket cover, it's important to disassemble, clean, and regrease these mechanisms once every generation or so. After 40 years or so, the grease turns into filthy solid ear wax and clutch action gets very difficult.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks all
Still waiting for the sixth OEM clutch spring ordered from Partsoutlaw on 3/30. Got 5, I’m sure due to pandemic.
Have OEM Gasket (2 actually)
OEM clutch drive friction plates in transit
Have cleaned and scuffed original steel driven plates, will reuse these, And install all w/flat side out.
New OEM clutch cable just ordered (good advice, Thanks Brian)

One question remains for which I have not found an answer. The notches on the ends on the claws of the driver plates. I just have to thing that there is some significance to their orientation, though the ones I removed were seemingly random.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I either need to go back to work soon, or some ordered parts better start arriving or I’m gonna end up polishing everything it’s far from perfect, but best I can do right now.

[bonanzadave]

For discussion only. I know nothing about this product....

https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/srk-race-sport-series-clutch-kit-srk50.p383708.prd/383708.sku

I have FBG plates in mine. The process is out lined at Cliffs place.....

http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/storagecliff/images/clutch_odds-n-ends.html