Stuck flywheel

[Guest]

My starter clutch has gone and I am trying to get into it. This is how far I have gotten. This is also my second swingarm axle as I stripped the treads off the first one. The manual says that if I can't get it off using this technique, which hasn't gone very well so far then I should get a professional to look at it, so here I am does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do if my slide hammer isn't working?

Cheers


IMG_5174.jpg

[Beaver]

A bit closer
IMG_5175.jpg

[Grimly]

A PO may have Loctited it to the taper, in which case some heat may be needed. Dodgy enough with the magnets and their fixing resin in close proximity. If you can obtain, or have readily available, a replacement flywheel/ rotor you could have it with impunity.

[bwringer]

What sort of motorcycle is that?

You need a proper puller that uses a screw arrangement to force the rotor off. Slide hammering simply won't work, but it does break and damage stuff.

There are different types of pullers depending on the bike.

If that's an M16x1.5 thread, it could be as simple as obtaining a high-strength bolt. Make sure it's the highest grade, 12.9. Lower grade stuff will usually strip before you get anywhere.

[Big T]

The swing arm threads are often too short to pop the rotor off
I used 3 washers and I know others have used a big ball bearing to provide the addition space needed

Then, thread the bolt in and use an impact gun to pop it off

[Beaver]

I had thought of a puller originally but then I found the manual and it suggested the slidehammer idea (which as you can see isn't going very well) It is a '77 750, and I think it is a 14mm bolt.

[Beaver]

I used 3 washers and I know others have used a big ball bearing to provide the addition space needed

Where do you use the washers/ball bearing?

[Big T]

Put them down the threaded hole where you screw the axle in. The insert the axle and turn hand tight. Use the impact gun to finish the job

[posplayr]

Are those cheap lime green gaskets? Guaranteed to leak.

[erki52]

When you do eventually put it all back together, make sure the half round seal between the main chamber and the top chamber is in position and doesn't move as the cover snaps back into place due to the magnets.

I had loads of fun trying to track an oil leak until it was suggested on this very forum to check the seal. Checked it, re-seated it made the wife hold it in position even at the risk of her losing fingertips and the leak stopped.

[Beaver]

Put them down the threaded hole where you screw the axle in. The insert the axle and turn hand tight. Use the impact gun to finish the job

Sweet, thanks! I'll get onto that and tell you how it goes

[Beaver]

Are those cheap lime green gaskets? Guaranteed to leak.

Noted, thanks

[posplayr]

Noted, thanks

Cometic or stock. I not sure is those green ones are Athena or Vesera? Ed knows (nessism) and has documented the green ones literally melting

[Beaver]

I used 3 small washers and an extra wheel bolt from one of our cars. Finding a M14 bolt would have required internet shopping and I had the wheel bolt laying around, I am unsure of the quality of the steel though. The washers got pretty mashed up and I stripped the threads off the bolt. On my second attempt the threads didn’t strip but the flywheel didn’t move either. Oh, and I used a heat gun on it too. Nothing too extreme but enough to loosen any loctite that might have been present.

[Brendan W]

Are those cheap lime green gaskets? Guaranteed to leak.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the actual colour.
I have a lime green base in there since 2015 and it's doing fine.
It was from an NE complete engine set that cost €70 or thereabouts.
I've seen the bubbly green pictures. Never seen anything like it before or since.
I imagine that not all Limes are the same.
I don't do many rebuilds. Just saying my experience data set is limited.