Bad Vibrations at 5000RPM+

[embrnick]

UPDATE - Vibration has been reduced

I replaced the stripped out mount bolt, tightened it down and it reduced the vibration as expected.

Now,

The same as before, at 5500 RPM vibration starts; however, it is less intense than before. It gets more intense as RPM increases without avail. Now, I've been told that bikes with solid mount motors are going to have some vibration regardless, but with myself being new to bikes, I am unsure whether I now have a normal level of vibration, or if there is still an underlying issue. I am hoping after I adjust the valves that it becomes even smoother. I also noticed when replacing the plugs that 1&4 are white and 2&3 are pretty blackened. Sign of a air/fuel mixture that's too rich, correct? Could this also be contributing to the buzz?

Thanks, for bearing with me everybody. All your help and insight is greatly appreciated.

[Rob S.]

All your help and insight is greatly appreciated.

Put your year and model in your signature.

[Gorminrider]

I am unsure whether I now have a normal level of vibration

Mainly, I can tell you that a 650 is as smooth as silk...you have to get to 7500+RPM to get any vibration that I might notice but even the, it's not troublesome- I can just feel the engine at that point through boots and the rubber covers of the footrests.

All four cylinder bikes are smooth as far as my limited experience goes.

Adjusting valves is good but unless they are so bad as to not allow cylinders to fire, it's unlikely to be the issue...I'd read the shop manual fully to inspect everything else that is related to the engine operation....it might be very bad or just a matter of a bad connection, leaky plug wires,caps, dirty carbs etc. etc etc causing cylinders not to fire. It is hard to judge your vibration from here, where we look through something like a pinhole camera to diagnose.....

This presupposes that the "vibration" IS from the engine. If it does so with the bike standing still, this might help pinpoint other weakpoints in the mounting or, sprove that the vibration is from the engine itself.

[embrnick]

UPDATE

Tonight I removed the valve cover to start working on a valve adjustment. For the most part I thought everything looked alright, but I thought the timing chain seemed loose. I was under the impression the 650L had an automatic tensioner. I linked a .gif below: does this look out of spec? If so, what would the best course of action be for me? What are your guys' thoughts as to whether this could be contributing to my vibrations?

https://imgur.com/gallery/2IOjZwO

Thanks all

[BigD_83]

Yeah, that looks a wee bit loose. Have you had the tensioner off?

[embrnick]

Have you had the tensioner off?

I haven’t touched it. Is it the style of tensioner where you have to loosen it to let it take the slack out and then retighten, or should it be removing slack constantly?

[Gorminrider]

It's self adjusting but someone might have locked it with the set screw. If so, download and read the manual and read the other stuff too . There's a lot on "Camchain tensioner in forum posts as well.... BikeCliff's Website ...Be sure to turn the engine in the correct direction(clockwise when looking at right side of bike) You can create slack turning the engine in the wrong direction...BUT indeed camchain should be much tighter than your (very nicely done) gif. Deflection should be very small when doing as you show..

[trevor]

[embrnick]

UPDATE

Apologies for the long time between posts; I’ve been struggling to get parts delivered due to the ‘rona.

So, I checked the valve clearances:The smallest feeler gauge money can buy wouldn’t fit. I ordered shims and waited for shipping. I also at this time ordered half moons and a new gasket; however, the replacement gasket was not only the wrong one, but was in pretty poor condition. After getting an OEM gasket from partzilla, and battling the cam end seals, the bike is back together.

First impressions:

The over all ride has improved dramatically. The bike is more responsive and the harsh secondary vibes are much less pronounced. I actually seem to have gained about 10mph in each gear at around 5000 RPM. I can cruise at 65mph at 4900. Even at the top end when the bike starts to vibrate the mirrors don’t fuzz up.

Going forward:
I think my next project will be throughly going over the carbs. I have serviced just about everything else so far. I was also interested in the Dynatek ignition if anyone has an advice when it comes to that type of thing.

Thanks so much to everyone who has helped out so far.

[tom203]

The stock electronic ignition on this bike is very reliable....so I’d skip the dyna for now.
Concentrate on the carbs....they need to be clean and balanced to each other - you want them all to be pulling equally especially as revs and loading climbs.

be sure to read and follow Nessism’s tutorial..... carb removal on this model is no fun ,so best to only have to do it once.