help, Clutch suddenly stopped working

[Bigthal97]

@agemax all the plates that came out are still in there. Not missing one i can tell you that for sure... now hear me out, just spit balling here... since those fiber plates are old and very hard. Could it be slipping hard enough to not even engage because the are so hard at this point?
If that doesnt seem right tell me lol. I'm just throwing ideas out.

[Bigthal97]

And I'm not lying when i say that entire hard ride the bike felt just fine. No issues whatsoever and got ne home just fine. Only after i was home i discovered the issue like i stated.

[Agemax]

if i was you, as you are waiting for new parts anyway, i would drain the oil out, remove the clutch cover and see first hand what is going on in there. you dont need to start it up, just pull the lever in, pop it in gear and let the lever out, maybe while pushing the bike slowly to see what is or isnt working correctly.

[Rob S.]

If the rear wheel spins when on the center stand (and in gear, clutch lever out), isn't the clutch technically working but slipping extremely?

[Bigthal97]

Good idea. I'll probably do that before i install the new stuff

[Bigthal97]

Rob i guess that would be a true. However on the center stand my wheel does not spin.

[Grimly]

What would happen if you put some full synthetic 0W-20 in a GS?

Nothing.
When it warms up it will be a bit noisier than before, with all the little tingly rattles the thicker oil keeps at bay.
Eventually, the clutch <might> slip.
Fwiw, my clutch was treated variously over the years to Slick 50, Molyslip, Uncle Joe's Pumpkin Pie and Mash Mix and the only time it started slipping was shortly after putting some 5w40 synthetic in it - it slipped under max throttle, but not lower down.. Mind you, it had done well in excess of 80k, that clutch and I never treated it well.
I replaced that clutch last year when I did the top end, and the old plates look absolutely fine. I'd have no problem roughing them up and re-using them if I was stuck for cash or parts.

[Baatfam]

Nothing.
When it warms up it will be a bit noisier than before, with all the little tingly rattles the thicker oil keeps at bay.
Eventually, the clutch <might> slip.
Fwiw, my clutch was treated variously over the years to Slick 50, Molyslip, Uncle Joe's Pumpkin Pie and Mash Mix and the only time it started slipping was shortly after putting some 5w40 synthetic in it - it slipped under max throttle, but not lower down.. Mind you, it had done well in excess of 80k, that clutch and I never treated it well.
I replaced that clutch last year when I did the top end, and the old plates look absolutely fine. I'd have no problem roughing them up and re-using them if I was stuck for cash or parts.

OK, thanks! That's what I thought. So not the oil then.

[rphillips]

Most any bike, on center stand, eng. running, clutch lever pulled & held all the way in, put in gear & rear wheel will turn, just from the friction of the oil between the clutch plates. Synthetic 0w-20? yes very thin & slick but no pulling at all is what is so strange. Years ago I put some "Slick 50" additive in an 1100 & it was still plenty rideable, would slip bad with too much throttle but his won't even pull the bike into the garage.

[Grimly]

OK, thanks! That's what I thought. So not the oil then.

No, I'm sure of that.
On thinking about the 0w20, I wouldn't use it anyway as it's a bit thin for comfort. I'm thinking about the fluid film on the camshaft bearings. A decent synth will protect them anyway, but the cam bearing clearance is designed for a thicker brew, even at max temperature. Depends on the pump - if it's not worn it might well be capable of shoving enough oil up the gallery to feed them regardless.
I'm fairly sure if it's a decent 0w20, there wouldn't be any deleterious effects on the crank or gearbox bearings, but the only way of finding out...

[Rob S.]

...Uncle Joe's Pumpkin Pie and Mash Mix...

So you think it's because the OP is a vegetarian?

I'll sure be anxious to hear what the cause is.

[Bigthal97]

I'll definitely keep everyone updated on this one.... plates and springs should be in tomorrow and a cable shortly after. It'll likely be the weekend before i can install them so I'll keep you guys posted

[Baatfam]

No, I'm sure of that.
On thinking about the 0w20, I wouldn't use it anyway as it's a bit thin for comfort. I'm thinking about the fluid film on the camshaft bearings. A decent synth will protect them anyway, but the cam bearing clearance is designed for a thicker brew, even at max temperature. Depends on the pump - if it's not worn it might well be capable of shoving enough oil up the gallery to feed them regardless.
I'm fairly sure if it's a decent 0w20, there wouldn't be any deleterious effects on the crank or gearbox bearings, but the only way of finding out...

Of course we don't what he put in it yet, do we. He has yet to tell us. Maybe it was olive oil, or something.

Hey OP...What is this "wrong oil" you put in?

[Bigthal97]

@baatfam.... i wasnt paying attention and bought a non wet clutch compatible oil. Wasnt the jaso m2 or whatever rating that is needed. For some reason i know oil for these old bikes is like asking Ford or chevy... ive seen guys argue all day. It was a local stores branded conventional 10/40 just wasnt wet clutch rated. I completely overlooked it. Figured I'd be safe and put the correct in.

[Baatfam]

@baatfam.... i wasnt paying attention and bought a non wet clutch compatible oil. Wasnt the jaso m2 or whatever rating that is needed. For some reason i know oil for these old bikes is like asking Ford or chevy... ive seen guys argue all day. It was a local stores branded conventional 10/40 just wasnt wet clutch rated. I completely overlooked it. Figured I'd be safe and put the correct in.

OK, perfect. The oil has nothing to do with your problem then. Something else is wrong.