Cylinder Block / Piston Assembly

[Guest]

Hi guys - I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I'm the new owner of a '83 GS1100e previously owned by Stiksave, my father in law. He did a great job building her up from a barn heap, and hopefully I will be able to take care of her for another 40 years.

I used to road-race, and so I probably pushed the bike harder the last month than it had been ridden in many years (or ever) and noticed an oil leak coming from the cylinder head cover. I initially was going to just replace the head cover gasket, but decided to push through and do a full replacement of the cylinder head cover gasket, cylinder head gasket and cylinder (bottom) gasket in addition to the smaller gaskets for the headers and cam chain tensioner assembly.

So my first question to the forum is this: Now that I've ordered all my parts (including Suzuki OEM piston ring clamps), what's the best way to get the cylinder block back onto the pistons and crankcase? My thinking was to manually turn the crank until the pistons were even-stroke with each other, clamp all four pistons and lower the block. I did some quick glancing for threads covering this but didn't find anything. Any tips from engine builders/mechanics out there?

-ODY

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I had better luck having 2 and 3 up and got those in first (the inner 2). Then manually turn the crank forward to even them out a bit to get 1 and 4 (the outer 2) into the barrels. After asking the same advice here, it was Fingers Only, this on very sage advice from member Steve. (thanks again Steve)

[storm 64]

I agree with Rich. 2-3 then 1-4. It also helps if you have a helping hand. One guy holding the cylinders the other guy guiding the rings. Be sure you have the oil rings positioned right. If you overlap the "wavy" ring you'll have a smoker. If you need help, I'm right over here in Youngstown. Good luck 👍

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you need help, I'm right over here in Youngstown. Good luck 

And he ain't just whistling Dixie. thank you too Norm!

[GregT]

I support the pistons on individual wooden cutout pieces. About 3/4in thick, slotted to accomodate the rods. Rotate the crank to lower the pistons down onto the wood and they'll stay correctly oriented for the block to be lowered onto them. I use fingers only for the rings - and do ensure there's a good lead-in taper on the bores.
Once the pistons are well into the bores, it's easy to remove the wooden pieces and lower the block all the way.

[Ody]

Rich/Storm/Greg,

Much appreciated for the quick response! I'm going to recruit my neighbor to help so I'll have an extra set of hands. This definitely gives me some good guidance. I'll let you guys know how it goes and what ended up working best.

ODY

[cowboyup3371]

I second the wooden “forks” that you can slide under the number 2 and 3 pistons to support them.

[bitzz]

It's a two man job
or
By myself, motor goes in a engine stand, then turn it upside down so the pistons are hanging.
The cylinder block goes on the bike lift so I can use the hydraulics to inch the block up to the pistons

[Carter Turk]

Don't forget the guide dowels from head to piston block, if they were out for gasket mating surface cleaning.

Did that once when I won the battle of getting 2-3 in after much fussing.

[Ody]

Yup I made sure to give them a good cleaning after pulling the cylinder block.

[Tom R]

New rings? Or ring clamps? Since you’re this far in, there are a few “might as wells” you should do.

[rapidray]

With the depth of what you are doing, the cost of stock rings and all the other parts, you should've just bored the block and gone 1166! Much more fun with the additional power and no issues with longevity. I hope you are lapping the valves and replacing the valve seals also while you have it apart?

[gs11ezrydr]

I had better luck having 2 and 3 up and got those in first (the inner 2). Then manually turn the crank forward to even them out a bit to get 1 and 4 (the outer 2) into the barrels. After asking the same advice here, it was Fingers Only, this on very sage advice from member Steve. (thanks again Steve)

Same technique here,Fingers and popsicle sticks work the best unless you have good band compressors and a smooth champher on the bottoms of the cylinders..And 2-3 helping hands lol.Rings break easier then you might think, twisted ,ect...

[Redman]

.
.................................Be sure you have the oil rings positioned right. If you overlap the "wavy" ring you'll have a smoker. . , , ,

I will need to understand that better, Will study the manaul. THanks Norm.

[wymple]

You would not say fingers only if you had mine. Popsicle sticks.