Bike won't let me put it in gear when cold

[Noreg]

When the bike is cold, and I try to put it in gear, it makes a gear grinding noise. The issue is completely gone when warm. I also struggle to start it when not in neutral.

The bike does not move when I push the starter, which suggests the clutch is disengaging properly. But it sounds like grinding gears, which suggest it doesn't.

Turning it off, putting it in gear, and then starting fixes the issue. After this process clutch and shifting works as expected.

I can't get it in gear at all while cold and running. Just grinding noise.

The oil on it now is only Yamalube Mineral 10w40 for motorcycles. It has gone a bit over the 3000 kilometer interval for oil changes (2000 maybe). It might be slightly low oil level.

When warm there is no issue, clutch works as expected when I get it in gear.

Any ideas? I only have a couple of weeks riding left, so I don't want to do too big stuff (apart from having my friend weld the exhaust back together). If the fix is something big Ill do it during the winter.

[Rob S.]

Can we assume your clutch is properly adjusted?

You may want to channel Max Von Sydow.

[Grimly]

Cold clutch drag, you're getting colder over there. Let it warm up for a few minutes before you take off.
If you intend riding it in the winter, try a 5w40 oil, but not an energy-conserving one.

[cowboyup3371]

What Grimly said - keep the choke on for a bit longer when you ride off as it will help a little.

[bwringer]

Yep, pretty normal when it gets colder.

It can help a little to adjust the clutch so that the disengagement point is a little further out. That way, when it's pulled in, there's a bit more space between the plates.

[Gorminrider]

It gets cold here too, on occasion but I've never had a "grinding noise". I don't have your bike either, but my Suzukis are kind of bad shifting at a standstill sometimes...

In addition to the clutch tips above AND always topping up oil to the correct level AND changing the oil before the service period (not after!)

try:
-with clutch in or in neutral, Roll the bike a bit forward or back . This rotates the output gear and may help your clutch and shifter "find the groove"...
-CHECK the gearshift pedal's linkage to the gearbox shaft. As a rule the "arms" connecting to the shafts are vertical and parallel to each other. ALSO check they are tight on their shafts..having any slack is not good.
-If you don't have a separation between engine oil and gear oil,(ie: some shaft drive bikes have two places and two types of oil to change and refill) the gears actually "chop" the motor oil up. If your gear-shifting is "better" with new oil, this is why. Change oil sooner or try a different brand.

afterthought: cold startup symptoms: It almost sounds like the starter clutch is not disengaging...or a gearbox issue

[Noreg]

My clutch wire was adjusted to looser just now, but the issue were there before.

Cold clutch drag doesn't seem unlikely, its cold. But when I had the 15w50 and it was freezing the bike moved when I pushed the starter. Now it won't move and won't start. In neutral it starts fine. Ill try to use choke for a few minutes next time. But might have to wait til sunday, I have a terrible work schedule this week.

It gets cold here too, on occasion but I've never had a "grinding noise". I don't have your bike either, but my Suzukis are kind of bad shifting at a standstill sometimes...

In addition to the clutch tips above AND always topping up oil to the correct level AND changing the oil before the service period (not after!)

try:
-with clutch in or in neutral, Roll the bike a bit forward or back . This rotates the output gear and may help your clutch and shifter "find the groove"...
-CHECK the gearshift pedal's linkage to the gearbox shaft. As a rule the "arms" connecting to the shafts are vertical and parallel to each other. ALSO check they are tight on their shafts..having any slack is not good.
-If you don't have a separation between engine oil and gear oil,(ie: some shaft drive bikes have two places and two types of oil to change and refill) the gears actually "chop" the motor oil up. If your gear-shifting is "better" with new oil, this is why. Change oil sooner or try a different brand.

afterthought: cold startup symptoms: It almost sounds like the starter clutch is not disengaging...or a gearbox issue

It only grinds as I push the gear lever down. So not while idling.

Should I change oil mid-trip? Like my last trip was 4000ish kilometers, so Id have to change oil mid way, which is somewhat inconvenient. When at home its no issue changing the oil.

I think the second oil is for the shaft drive, not the gear box? But its gear oil...

I think if the starter clutch wasn't disengadging it would not only sound when I push the shift lever, but that might be a bad assumption on my part.

Sadly I am swamped at work so I havent been able to squeeze in a ride (damn 14 hour work days). I am keeping sunday free though, so fingers crossed for decent weather.

I find shifting to be pretty nice mostly, it can be terribly hard to get in neutral at times, seems you need surgical precision to do it sometimes.

[Gorminrider]

ok. It's Good to have gearbox oil separate. I don't have any bikes with that and I don't know the gear oil change interval of those.
Warming it up is a good idea to try. Idea being the oil is thick and sticky on the clutch plates...

Stopped, Try the rocking backnforth. it works for me with my "shared-oil" bikes if they do this. Or others have said (JohnPark) buy some really fancy motorcycle oil for the 400s and 450s etc and it'll be better.... with your separate gearbox this might be a good idea but not as relevant for you

I do have a shaftdrive 650G. It doesn't make grinding noises BUT I change gears gently at slow speeds (slow car ahead of me etc.) -I kind of feel it in at slow speeds...Perhaps mine has too much gear lash where it goes to the shaft but whatever- it's a cruising bike, and not to be beaten up except by mileage alone. I've already been through the "Zooks Syndrome" with it and I don't want anymore of that.

As you say, at higher rpm (5k+)gearbox is fast as i want. .

it can be terribly hard to get in neutral at times, seems you need surgical precision to do it sometimes.

difficulty finding neutral is very very very common. If it's a comfort, Kawasaki even went to the trouble of making a "fool proof" system to find neutral. One easy trick is to put a stronger spring at the neutral detente. I tried this but it also makes 1-2 "notchy"...

[Noreg]

Today I rode twice, with some time between. The temperature is just above freezing (most places, there were icy roads). The first time I let it choke for a good while while I was taking on my gloves and getting ready. It worked as normally. The second time I did about half as much time, then it made grinding noise when I put it in gear, but it did get into gear.

Shifting was sticky though, Ill change the oil and see if that helps. Not sure if there will be any more weather to ride in. Got the bike into the garage.

As long as having trouble finding neutral is common Ill just leave it. I was just worried it would indicate something wrong.

[Rob S.]

As long as having trouble finding neutral is common Ill just leave it. I was just worried it would indicate something wrong.

Difficulty finding neutral can often times be helped by adjusting the clutch cable.