Clutch not disengaging

[jmoe67]

Hi y’all. I’m not one to actively contribute to the forum but I hope you’ll find it in yourselves to help me out. I have an ‘83 1100E and was experiencing the dreaded clutch basket rattle. I purchased another basket and sent it over to APE for the basket modification while I had it out. I ended up replacing the inner sleeve as well because the star pattern on the shaft was pretty worn. I reassembled everything as it was and torqued the nut down to spec per the manual.

I finally got to the point of clutch cable adjustment (brand new cable) but no matter how far it’s backed off at both adjustment points, the clutch will not disengage. I removed 3 of the 6 heavy duty springs and the discs stayed soaked in oil the whole time I was replacing the basket. The actuator arm is moving a decent amount ant I can see it he front plate disengaging (what I think is enough) from the basket to be able to push the bike freely while in gear. I have been shining a light down the oil fill plug to verify it’s movement, but no matter what, the bike will not roll forward freely with the clutch pulled in.

Is there a chance I missed something in reassembly when I replaced the basket that would effect this? I really hate to loosen the hub nut again and check. I don’t even know if there is something behind the basket that would effect this as the discs and plates are what keep it engaged.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

[jmoe67]

So it seems it inner hub is not moving freely of the outer basket. I loosened my hardened nut but anything tighter than finger tight seems to lock the two in place. The washer is installed correctly behind the hub as well. Is it ok to barely tighten the nut and lock it into place and with the washer? Or is it a certainty it will come loose?

[rphillips]

Wait, the inner hub should spin completely free of the outer hub with the nut tightened to spec. Sounds like something isn't in correctly, behind the inner hub.

[1978GS750E]

Check the placement of the washers behind the basket. If they are in wrong, it will not spin. (Ask me how I know?)

[jmoe67]

Check the placement of the washers behind the basket. If they are in wrong, it will not spin. (Ask me how I know?)

I pulled both inner and outer baskets. Washer was in place correctly on crank bearing behind outer basket and the other washer with the two slots for oil was placed correctly between the two baskets. I’m completely lost at this point. I can basically torque to 10ft lbs before it starts to bind.

[GregT]

You say you ended up replacing the inner sleeve. Do you mean the large spacer which the needle roller bearing runs on ?

If yes, you may have a short spacer. The length of this when trapped between the washers is just enough to let the basket spin on the bearing.
Too short and it will lock everything up.
This came up on a recent thread where it was stated that the 1100 clutch could have the basket endfloat adjusted by changing washers.
I'd refer to the manual for info on setting up the endfloat.

[jmoe67]

You say you ended up replacing the inner sleeve. Do you mean the large spacer which the needle roller bearing runs on ?

If yes, you may have a short spacer. The length of this when trapped between the washers is just enough to let the basket spin on the bearing.
Too short and it will lock everything up.
This came up on a recent thread where it was stated that the 1100 clutch could have the basket endfloat adjusted by changing washers.
I'd refer to the manual for info on setting up the endfloat.

I misspoke when I mentioned the inner sleeve, I meant inner hub. Regardless, I took another look and compared my basket to another that I had lying around and the inner lip that has the two slots to mesh up with the gear is exactly the same. I’ve matched up different combos of washers from the spare engine I have lying around and no matter what I do it seems to bind. The spare engine I have is from my old ‘82 so it has the same exact washers etc. I even took some of these and placed them in just in case my washers were faulty from the ‘83. I may as well upload a video or something so I can verify I’m not insane. Is there a chance the backside of the inner hub is not machined properly or even? It’s a brand new replacement.

[jmoe67]

Problem solved! I’ll post an update in a bit.

[rphillips]

Good idea jmoe, that's where lots of the answers here come from, folks that have been through problems, figured them out, & shared with the rest of us. Glad you got it sorted. Congrats.

[jmoe67]

Good idea jmoe, that's where lots of the answers here come from, folks that have been through problems, figured them out, & shared with the rest of us. Glad you got it sorted. Congrats.

Thank you! Feeling some relief.

After trying a bunch of combinations and pulling all my hair out, I read back on what GregT said. I looked at the inner sleeve of the outer basket that sits with the roller bearing. It looked like the roller bearing was protruding just the slightest bit, but basically flush with the inner sleeve. I thought maybe this was just enough to bind up with the roller bearing. I took the other sleeve and roller bearing from my 82 and swapped it in. Unfortunately, I was so zoned in to fixing the problem that I didn’t compare sleeve lengths to see if that was the case. GregT’s comment was the most likely scenario but I also believe it could’ve been the roller bearing. Even though it seemed to roll freely, I think it could’ve been just slightly bent causing it to bind up and not sit all the way down on the shaft/spacer. I only think this because it was a pain to take on and off when I was pulling the basket in and out.

Regardless, I learned that .5 mil (maybe less) can bind up that basket.

Thanks for input everyone, much appreciated. I’ll try to check-in more often and return the favor.