Bad clutch sign?

[nutz4spd]

The last few times I've had the 750 out I've noticed if I get on it kinda hard it acts like it goes into neutral between the 6-7k rpm mark and then "catches" again after that. Does this mean the clutch is slipping at higher rpms? Down low if pulls just fine. It's only once I get into the higher rpm band it acts up.

[Noreg]

Mine does this too if I give it full throttle at second gear. I think it might be a worn clutch but I haven't gotten around to fixing it. In general the clutch seems sloppy compared to other bikes Ive riden. I find it convenient for riding around town though.

My symptom is the revs increase, but the speed does not, then the speed increases and the revs goes down and then its back to normal.

[Redman]

you mean engine rpms run up but road speed mph doesnt . . . ?

Yah, clutch slipping... and probably slipping some at lowerspeeds/rpm too but just that you dont notice.

Some folks may recommend changing just the clutch springs.
If clutch friction plates are years old, even if are within the thickness service limits, they are probably hard and not-grabby.
Get new springs (stock, not drag, not racing) and new friction plates, and you will be amazed at the difference. Will need to learn how to operate a clutch all over again.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I'll second Redman's thoughts. New friction plates and new OEM springs cured my same issues, even though both were in spec.

I would add, a new clutch cable won't hurt ya none. It's not causing the clutch to slip, but if yours is original, it's time. Keep the old one as a spare. Buy OEM, they're not very expensive.

And at very great risk of bodily harm to myself and my family by even mentioning or asking what type of motor oil you're using: What kind of oil are you using?

[phydeauxmutt]

I have found that simply replacing the springs will do wonders. Only $20 for the set of OEM springs and about $10 for the gasket. If you want to go cheaper than that, just put washers under the existing springs, but you will still need a gasket. Replacing the friction disks adds about $140 to the repair bill.

[nutz4spd]

And at very great risk of bodily harm to myself and my family buy even mentioning or asking what type of motor oil you're using: What kind of oil are you using?[/QUOTE]

I'll be sure to corner you if we ever meet and bring this question up. lol j/k I originally had Mobil1 10w40 but after leaving the petcock open one day I had to change the oil and went with Valvoline 10w40 this time. And yes, they were both motorcycle formulas. :-)

[rphillips]

"Leaving the petcock open" It shuts off automatically, unless it needs fixing.

[nutz4spd]

"Leaving the petcock open" It shuts off automatically, unless it needs fixing.

Not if it's left in the prime position over night.

[rphillips]

Don't do that.

[Rob S.]

How frustrating is that? You go to the power band because you want power, and the clutch is just slip-sliding away. Gives me chills just to think about it!

[Noreg]

you mean engine rpms run up but road speed mph doesnt . . . ?

Yah, clutch slipping... and probably slipping some at lowerspeeds/rpm too but just that you dont notice.

Some folks may recommend changing just the clutch springs.
If clutch friction plates are years old, even if are within the thickness service limits, they are probably hard and not-grabby.
Get new springs (stock, not drag, not racing) and new friction plates, and you will be amazed at the difference. Will need to learn how to operate a clutch all over again.

Do the clutch plates have to be OEM? I see they have some cheap ones on ebay.

I have new springs but every time I consider changing them I realize I forwent buying the gasket.

I was suprised when riding the work bikes, their clutches was very grabby compared to my gs.

[nutz4spd]

Don't do that.

It wasn't intentional, I swear.

[rphillips]

I's just poki'n at ya, you ain't the first that has done it.