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GS1100e cam cap bolts

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    GS1100e cam cap bolts

    I found the crankshaft I needed to get my "e" back on the road(main brng "spalled out") and ordered nec parts, but forgot about some cam cap bolts! When I disassembled, several were in the process of stretching and breaking, even tho I had torqued them in previous wrenching to OEM specs with an accurate torque wrench. I was going to order OEM "9" bolts(flanged 6mm x 40mm) but wondered if there's a better way to go. Any suggestions, or just go OEM. I don't need/want to go to 7mm unless someone really in the know sez otherwise. I'm using stock cams, btw. I have a couple other threads on this topic if you care to read the whole saga...advice apreciated, expert preferred!
    '82 & '83 GS1100e

    #2
    Well, seeing as no-one's answered, I'll admit to having used 6mm socket head capscrews as replacements. OE is hard to find at this end of the world.
    I have however used 12mmOD flat washers under the heads. Torque to the usual values. They are at least as high spec as the OE flanged bolts - and easier to find.

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      #3
      Cam cover bolts you mean ?
      No need for OEM stuff, most are torqued to just 1 mkg / 0.7 ft/lb - every bolt that fits can handle that.

      When I disassembled, several were in the process of stretching and breaking, even tho I had torqued them in previous wrenching to OEM specs with an accurate torque wrench.
      The cam cover threads on a lot of the bikes i work on are abused, tired, worn.
      PO : "cam cover leak ? Just torque them harder."
      That way the threads wear down until they cannot handle proper torque, which is the reason i always
      torque these by feel and not use a torque wrench.
      It takes some practice but you can feel how healthy a thread is manually and stop when you feel you've reached the limit a thread can take.
      Got a broken cylinder head or something like that ? Great way to learn : just destroy some threads by over-torquing.
      Go slow. That way you feel when the thread or bolt is starting to give up.

      I always tap the threads clean before mounting the cam cover, and i want to feel the bolt go in smoothly by hand.
      That way, any dirt or corrosion that may hinder the feel of the thread is gone.
      Since you're hardly putting any torque on the bolts, sometimes the torque wrench calls ok before the bolt head even
      touches the cam cover surface because the friction in the dirty/corroded threads is so high.
      Last edited by Rijko; 08-23-2021, 12:16 PM.
      Rijk

      Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

      CV Carb rebuild tutorial
      VM Carb rebuild tutorial
      Bikecliff's website
      The Stator Papers

      "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

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        #4
        I ordered 6 OEM bolts from my local shop, Suzuki still stocks them 1.50 ea. I did mean cam cap or cam bearing not cam cover but thanks Rijko...hope to have it running by 1st of Sept.
        '82 & '83 GS1100e

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          #5
          ok, just a warning for others on cam cap bolts : using socketheads (higher than OEM) and adding a washer underneath can result in damage to the large cam cover.
          The sockethead simply pushes through the cam cover while torquing.
          Ask me how i know

          Glad it worked for you Greg.
          Rijk

          Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

          CV Carb rebuild tutorial
          VM Carb rebuild tutorial
          Bikecliff's website
          The Stator Papers

          "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

          Comment

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