install exhaust cam . . . . . . '82 1100G

[Redman]

Installing exhaust cam

I understand about turning crank clockwize, keeping chain tight, and the "T" mark align with pickup.

Instructions in Factory Service Manual ("FSM") says something like: install exhaust cam with #1 arrow flush with gasket surface, and also says #2 arrow straight up (I assume perpendicular to head).


Maybe I interpreted "flush with gasket surface" as parallel to gasket surface so that the #2 is straight up.
So I did that.

And I understand about 20 pins to line up with the #3 on intake cam. (not asking about that)
And I figure not to install the little bridge cam guide untill bolt down the exhaust cam. (not asking about that)


After I got both cams bolted down, and then turn engine a few times (clockwize), back around to T mark .... and exhaust cam #1 is not pointing at the gasket surface, is about one tooth up too high.

Huh?

I think I kept the chain tight from crank on up.
Is the problem that when bolt down the cam , that lowers the cam...?

Reading the FSM again.... not seeing anything that helps me.
I usally give the FSM the priority, it has better pictures and FSM is very specific to 82 GS1100G. THe Clymers seems to be more specific to the 850G.

.... but then studying the Clymers manaul, when it talks about positioning the exh cam, it says something like point the #1 arrow toward the gasket surface or slightly below.
hum.... "pointing the arrow toward or slightly below" seems somewhat different than what the FSM says, and seems like would avoid the situation I had.

ANy words of wisdom from you gearheads? ?

What I am asking: How do you describe how to install the exhaust cam? ?

.

[phydeauxmutt]

When you point the #1 arrow slightly below the gasket surface, THEN bolt the cam down, it will be parallel.

I know you said you weren't asking about the 20 pins to the intake cam, but wanted to make sure that you don't make a rather common mistake. DON'T label the pin over the #2 arrow as "zero", then start counting at the next pin. The pin that is over the #2 arrow is your #1 pin, then the #20 pin will be over arrow #3 on the intake cam.

[Redman]

When you point the #1 arrow slightly below the gasket surface, THEN bolt the cam down, it will be parallel.
.

Thanks.
Seems that the FSM explanation is lacking, Perhaps due to translation.

.
I know you said you weren't asking about the 20 pins to the intake cam, but wanted to make sure that you don't make a rather common mistake. DON'T label the pin over the #2 arrow as "zero", then start counting at the next pin. The pin that is over the #2 arrow is your #1 pin, then the #20 pin will be over arrow #3 on the intake cam.

I dont mind being warned of common mistake. I dont even mind being warned of stupid mistakes.

I did catch that idea of pin at #2 arrow is to be number 1, I think mostly from the diagrams.

Someone could have warned me not to drop wrist pin into crankcase while installing pistons.
And .... someone could have warned me not to drop cylinder head nut washer into cam chain tunnel. But, lets not talk about that now.

[Redman]

Also:

FSM says to position exhaust cam blah blah blah. Then position intake cam blah blah blah. THen bolt down the cams.

Clymers says to position exhaust cam blah blah blah. THen bolt down the exhaust cam. THen position intake cam bla blah blah. THen bolt down the intake cam.
Seems to me that way if bolt down the exhaust cam, can sooner see how the #1 arrow lines up, and it gives a bit extra chain to work with when positioning the intake cam. Think I will do that. And Clymer talks about rechecking to see still on the T mark, and always holding the chain so tight from the crank up to the exhaust cam, and keep holding chain so doesnt jump the exhst sprocket. Yep. Yep.

[Redman]

Any other words of wisdom from folks ?

[phydeauxmutt]

I have always bolted down the exhaust before installing the intake. It's one of those "just in case" things to assure that nothing happens to the exhaust while installing the intake.

[Redman]

I have always bolted down the exhaust before installing the intake. It's one of those "just in case" things to assure that nothing happens to the exhaust while installing the intake.

Thanks. . . . .

[Nessism]

Double check the 1-4 T crank mark and assure the crank doesn't move when installing the exhaust cam.

As mentioned, the 1 mark should angle slightly down, but not too much. After bolting down the exhaust cam the 1 mark should be flush or slightly above the gasket surface. If the 1 mark is angled down you are likely off a tooth.

Count from 2 to 3 and install the intake cam.

[bwringer]

Yeah, timing these things is just tricky that way. It's really easy to get the cam chain wadded up around the crank, or not have it pulled tight enough.

One trick I've only seen in one aftermarket manual (forget which one) is to use a large set of vise-grips to hold the exhaust cam in its final position, compressed against the valve springs. Clamp just to the left of #2; there's a flat spot in the cylinder head that's perfect for this, and a section of the camshaft that's not critical. With that set and clamped, it's much easier to proceed with the intake.

Once you've done this a few times, you'll develop a sense of how far "off" you have to be in order for things to line up once the cam caps are on and everything compressed.

But you're probably hoping to NOT ever do this again...

[TeamDar]

When you are going to disassemble the engine it is wise to observe the timing marks before you remove the cams. Set the crank to 1-4 tdc and observe the cam sprocket marks. Look at the end of the camshafts for the groove cut unto the ends and make note of the location. You can even take a picture of your observations and it will help with assembly. Dar

[Redman]

Thanks .

Thanks .

[Redman]

And end up like this ...



Good..

Note use of rag to cover sparkplug holes. The cam caps have little dowwells that can fall loose.