'82 GS1100G Tensioner question

[Redman]

THis pic from my posting doesnt show the 1 - 2- 3 arrows very well, but can see them. Pictures in any manaul will show it all better.

1 & 2 on exhaust cam sprocket (on right, front of engine), 3 on the intake (on left, rear of engine).
THe arrows are on the sprockets, only on this side that can see in this picture.

Use this picture only to see the 1 - 2 - 3 arrows. THe picture was taken when I had a couple different problems going on, so not a good example for much of anything.

[willie]

G timing mark.jeditpg.jpg
Okay, I'm feeling pretty good about there being exactly 20 pins between the arrows. Just want to make sure that the T 1-4 mark you mentioned is the mark that's located between the T and the F. This is the mark I'm referring to and, perhaps its not important if it isn't because there are 20 pins between the 2 arrows.

[Redman]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]63723[/ATTACH]
Okay, I'm feeling pretty good about there being exactly 20 pins between the arrows. Just want to make sure that the T 1-4 mark you mentioned is the mark that's located between the T and the F. This is the mark I'm referring to and, perhaps its not important if it isn't because there are 20 pins between the 2 arrows.

Yes, that T mark lined up with that pickup on the left (assuming picture not upsidedown).
AND arrow 1 pointing at top of head surface (cam cover surface).

And .... 2 and 3 arrow spaced at 20 pins (counting the pins at the arrows, not 20 pin in between).

[Redman]

After get tensioner back in (follow manual), then turn engine a few times (clockwize) and check the marks again.

[willie]

A couple more observations that are causing me mixed feelings. 1st some regret that I messed with the tensioner at all. 2nd the understanding that one never knows the mechanical history of a used bike that has a performance problem. and 3rd I'm confident that I have a good chance of fixing any particular problem that I cause or uncover. Now, that stated, I'll describe what I've found.
While slowly turning the engine over, clockwise, I noticed the slack in the cam chain between the sprockets would come and go. It would vary from tight as drum to extremely loose. So, I removed the tensioner, properly, and confirmed that the plunger is indeed moving before reinstalling it. After turning the engine over some more, I noticed the chain slack still comes and goes. This lead me to check the amount of spring tension on the knob. In other words, how much effort it takes to turn the knob. Well, there is next to none. So little, in fact, that the knob almost remains were its at when released.
This lead me to take another look at BWringer's tensioner tutorial in which he states, " think of the tensioner as a mechanical one-way valve -- it can tighten the cam chain if needed, but it won't allow it to loosen. The pushrod can come out, but it can't go back in (unless you turn the knob.)"
In my opinion, the tensioner plunger is going in and out vs going out (ie taking up the tension) and staying out. If so, it's because the spring loaded knob doesn't have enough tension to prevent the plunger from staying out (ie pushing against the chain).
I was hoping that the tutorial stated how many turns of tension there should be on the knob but it doesn't. Instead, it says to count the number of turns during disassembly and preload it the same amount of turns during reassembly.
So, I'd like opinions and suggestions as to how I should proceed. In my opinion, I think I should add another turn to the spring and see what happens. Again, what are your thoughts?

[Redman]

.
.
.
While slowly turning the engine over, clockwise, I noticed the slack in the cam chain between the sprockets would come and go. It would vary from tight as drum to extremely loose. .
.
.

Good that are turning crank clockwize. ANd good that you have the bwringer tutorial. That tutorial sure contains more knolodge and wisdom than what I have (and what little I have came mostly from that, and a little from the FSM.).

Certainly sounds like tensioner not doing what it is suppose to.
But I dont have enough expereince to know what can casue the tensioner not to work.

Well, unless it was installed but not released (that screw.... is difficult to describe with words)... or maybe it was released but then locked back down (that screw, the screw should be loosend to release the spring tension, then the nut tightened while the screw is still out).

When have the tensioner out in your hand. You can go thru the proceedure, but dont really install it. Hold onto the plunger when release that screw, can feel the pressure ushing the plunger out, can let the plungergo out a little bit, but you cant push it back in, can let it out a little bit more, but cant push it back in. Has to do with the spring pushing agains that sloped end of the plunger.

[willie]

I had the exact same idea with regard to observing the operation of the tensioner with it off and in my hand. I'm guessing that's the only way to determine if the spring loaded rod with the knob on the end is exerting enough force to keep the plunger from retracting into the housing. Stay tuned.
On the bright side, hopefully what I'm going through and detailing will help someone else on down the line.

[willie]

Thought I'd update this for anyone who's following my ordeal. The old saying that you can't see the forest because of the trees, or something to that effect comes to mind. After realizing that I could push the plunger rod in all the way without turning the knob, I turned my attention to that issue. After reinstalling the tensioner for the 5th(?) time and releasing the threaded bolt I heard the plunger slide in and make contact, hopefully, with the chain. However, the odd thing was that the knob didn't move in the least. In fact, I had to push the knob towards the body in order for it to contact the plunger. The spring that's wrapped around the knob's shaft was pushing the knob away from the body instead of drawing it close. Wtf! I ended up tightening the spring a couple of wraps. Doing so resulted in the knob turning clockwise and making contact with the plunger rod. That is when I ran out of time. . However, I'm finally optimistic about how this is going to turn out. To be contd.

[storm 64]

This thread sounds like a Stevie Ray Vaughn song... "Willie the link, and his cam chain tensioner"🎶 lol, just joking around. 🌞

[willie]

lol!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I turned my attention to that issue. After reinstalling the tensioner for the 5th(?) time and releasing the threaded bolt I heard the plunger slide in and make contact, hopefully, with the chain.

Hopefully not. That’s not how it works. The plunger of the tensioner contacts the cam rear chain guide#11 below (actually it’s called a cam chain tensioner). It’s sort of a long, curved black plastic piece that’s sort of hinged down inside the engine case. That’s what makes contact with the chain.

[willie]

Understood and what I what I should have written. I realize that the plunger itself doesn't make contact with the chain and I appreciate you taking me to task on this matter in case anyone else may've taken my words literally. Thanks Rich.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Yep, I figured that’s what you meant. Just trying to make things clear. Carry on.

[willie]

To anyone following this thread, I thought I'd write the final chapter, I hope.
After adding 2 more turns to the spring preload, the tensioner works great now. No more slack when turning the crank by hand.
The End
PS
Thanks to those who helped and happy new year to all.

[Redman]

. . . . .
After adding 2 more turns to the spring preload, the tensioner works great now. . . .
. . .

Two MORE turns...? or it needed some turns instead of none? Or was it having the turns in the proper direction that made the big difference.....?

Anyway, you tested it and it wasnt doing what it was suppose to, but adding two more turns, then it did what it was suppose to.
Good that you solved it.