Restoring Fairing?

[DarkDevil]

I've got 2 pieces of lower fairing from a GS750EF that i'm gonna put on my GS750ES. Problem is, both are painted a different color, and neither match my bike and both have been dropped, resulting in some damage. How would i go about fixing this?

What I plan on doing is...

Sand them all with some harsh sand paper until i'm past the layers of paint.

fill in the areas missing plastic (from one of the drops) with an ABS Plastic + ABS Solvent Cement Mix.

Sand Down ABS repair places.

Cover entire fairing in body filler (whats this stuff called? they use it to restore cars all the time.. will it work on fairing?)

Sand down the body filler with fine grain sandpaper.

Paint with Primer

Paint with Automotive Paint

Paint with Clear Coat

Polish

Polish

Polish.



To me this all sounds right... but.. I'd like for someone to tell me if theres anything i'm missing, or that they've done exactly this.

[DarkDevil]

Anyone?! Hello?

[wayne cooper]

repair

Is the piece fibreglass or plastic? Do you have any experience with wood working-furniture building or refinishing?-Autobody repair would be nice.I only ask because I would like my reply to be based on a little bit of background knowledge of you.It's not that I feel that the job is difficult but we should be on a level playing field to start. Good start would be what tools are you working with? Do you have a auto supply nearby that sells autobody supplies?Is there a Canadian Tire or the likes near by?Will the finish be rattle can paint or spray gun?Keep in mind that hand tools can turn out excellent results,and spray cans can do wonders.Oh yeah, is this a touch up- fix up for now or a complete redo of the bike?If the piece is not totally trashed we might get through a touch-up for less than $100and end up looking good! For comparison a quick complete pro-job(done by myself) cost me almost $300 without having to buy any equiptment or rental of a shop! P.S didn't even get into the pricey paints! 8O

[DarkDevil]

I don't really have any experience doing any type of shop stuff, except the type of things you do in jr high woodshop class. However, I'm quick to learn and can follow instruction no problemo.

I live nearby a commercialized area of town, so i've got Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Kent, nearby, and every bikeshop in town is within a 10 minute drive. The one i goto is 3 minute drive. So, supplies isn't a problem.

Tools. We've got a dremel knockoff.. something by mastercraft, along with a hand grinder, an electric sander (my dad says its orbital... but... it takes rectangular papers.... maybe i'm mistaking.. but i thought orbitals turned in circles.. and took circular papers) along with drills and the whatnot.

As far as weather it'll be a full bike job or what... I do have to repaint my tank, and my upper fairing, but I was going to see how good of a job I can do on the full fairing, and if afterwards i'm confident enough, do the tank and upper fairing myself. The lower fairing (full fairing) is an add on to my stock bike, so i'm more willing to work on them, and take a while to do so. Its not like a tank... I can ride the bike while the lower fairings are being worked on.

thanks for your help... so... what next?


I've skimmed through this (http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm)... it looks pretty close to what I described in my post... Is this basicly what you were going to recommend... anything different?

[Billy Ricks]

You can cut through the decals with a little elbow grease and something on the order of 300 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Don't use anything too course or you'll make more work for yourself trying to make the first step easier. A good paint job is all in the prep.

[wayne cooper]

I'm back.Okay,not sure what type of damage you are up against but doesn't matter at this point. Will go with rattle can finish, as the end result is passable and less expensive for practice. First-supplies-sanding block, cantrash has several I like the one that looks like grey rubber-flat-harder on one side softer on the other-about 5 bucks, good for final sanding stages.A small sanding block(the humped back affair will get you through the primary sanding-( 3x5" piece of pine will work for the base plastic shaping and sanding if you want to give it a try and save 5 bucks)As far as sand paper-Couple of sheets each-40,100,180-Wet-240,320,400 no real need to go finer. I think primer is now sold in rattle cans that is "high build" as opposed to the run of the mill stuff, if you have a UAP store you might check, go with a colour to suit your final color-grey if you are going light blue and so on.Look to see if you can find a finish color in touch up paint at CTC.While there check repair manual section there used to be one on body repair.Check it out Email ,pm or post-I check daily.