Rattle Can - Flat or Gloss?

[Jethro]

Great Theory, but who hasn't put WAY more hours in our old bikes than is financially sensible. I think my rate is about $2 an hour...or less :-D Labor of love I guess.

I hear ya! I would say that using that same formula I have about $27,300.00 into my 83 1100. A steal at $25,000.00!

[ScreamingLiL2stroke]

Heres a nice rattle can paint job on a gas tank someone i know did,the flames were airbrushed

[Can_O_Tuna]

Heres a nice rattle can paint job on a gas tank someone i know did,the flames were airbrushed

Anything is possible....I'm sure there is someone out there who did a complete custom job with 2 Q-tips and house paint that looks fantastic. J/K This is a great looking job.

[supergus]

In order to make a rattle can paint job gas resistant, you need to leave the tank in the sun or under heat lamps for at least 30 days before introducing any kind of chemical. Even then, the paint never hardens becasue it doesn't have HARDENER in it. Even good quality spray bombs (kind of an oxymoron) from a real paint shop don't have hardener in it. It might be decent color base, but it won't have hardener in it unless you have a good friend at the shop and you live within a quarter mile of the paint shop.

there is another option i believe, you CAN paint w/ a rattle can and get what you need. and then you can clear coat w/ a 2 step clear. this should protect you tank from chemicals/gas. and if you know anyone in a body shop or like one other post, talk to a shop and have them clear your tank when they are painting something else, might be a cheap way of protecting your "artwork". also, you could also try the Prevail sprayer w/ some clear from NAPA or a body shop too. (i might try that and post the results here soon)

[8trackmind]

there is another option i believe, you CAN paint w/ a rattle can and get what you need. and then you can clear coat w/ a 2 step clear. this should protect you tank from chemicals/gas. and if you know anyone in a body shop or like one other post, talk to a shop and have them clear your tank when they are painting something else, might be a cheap way of protecting your "artwork". also, you could also try the Prevail sprayer w/ some clear from NAPA or a body shop too. (i might try that and post the results here soon)

The Prevail does not have enough pressure to fully atomize the clear. You would have to over-reduce it. Most of the catalized clears will allow up to 10% reduction, but it's not really enough for the Prevail. Still to thick.

The prevail will shoot basecoat pretty well. On the high metalics, it tends to be somewhat spotty but it will work.


OK, I hate doing this. You guys should at least TRY to do things right but...For those of you that just won't listen...:?

There is a two-part clear in a rattle can. It's made by RM. (BASF) The part # is AM2100. With proper tank prep, it will hold up to fuel. One caveat...It really needs to go over basecoat, not rattle can Krylon. You will have to go to a real body shop supply store to get it though. (Not Walmart)

[supergus]

thanks

Thanks! i think you just saved me ALOT of time and frustration. I will prolly just goto a local bodyshop now and "just do it right".

[8trackmind]

Thanks! i think you just saved me ALOT of time and frustration. I will prolly just goto a local bodyshop now and "just do it right".

Good! Life is too short to go around with a crappy paint job...

[cloudbreakmd]

I dunno... I have done it the rattle can way and it came out really good. I even clear coated it. Most shops around here won't touch motorcycle pieces for under $1,000 a bike...
Before and after:

[Jethro]

The Prevail does not have enough pressure to fully atomize the clear. You would have to over-reduce it. Most of the catalized clears will allow up to 10% reduction, but it's not really enough for the Prevail. Still to thick.

The prevail will shoot basecoat pretty well. On the high metalics, it tends to be somewhat spotty but it will work.


OK, I hate doing this. You guys should at least TRY to do things right but...For those of you that just won't listen...:?

There is a two-part clear in a rattle can. It's made by RM. (BASF) The part # is AM2100. With proper tank prep, it will hold up to fuel. One caveat...It really needs to go over basecoat, not rattle can Krylon. You will have to go to a real body shop supply store to get it though. (Not Walmart)

You must know paint pretty well, so I hope you don't mind me asking a related question. I have heard that most paint shops don't do clear, that when you see a really deep glossy finish that looks like 20 coats of clear it's actually in the paint itself (or the hardener, I can't remember what the guy said). Is this true? He said most shops only do clear if they have to, like over leaf or something.

[8trackmind]

You must know paint pretty well, so I hope you don't mind me asking a related question. I have heard that most paint shops don't do clear, that when you see a really deep glossy finish that looks like 20 coats of clear it's actually in the paint itself (or the hardener, I can't remember what the guy said). Is this true? He said most shops only do clear if they have to, like over leaf or something.

Most painters these days use basecoat. Most of the custom painters also are using base now too. House of Kolor, DuPont, Basf, PPG etc all have basecoat paint lines geared to doing custom work.
If the painter has been painting in a production shop (ie. insurance) they are used to working with it. They also are used working on small areas. (like a motorcycle)
The newer high-solids type clears can be buffed many times, so for the long haul, it will be glossier.
There really is no reason to use single stage on a bike. You can get better results with a base-clear setup. The fact is, there are no new cars that I'm aware of that use single stage.
Plus, it's way easier to do your pinstripes or two tones under the clear so you don't end up with paint ridges.
(Btw, My bike has no tape stripes, they were all done in base, under the clear)

[ScreamingLiL2stroke]

cloudbreakmd the paint looks good on the yamaha:-D

[Billy Ricks]

Most painters these days use basecoat. Most of the custom painters also are using base now too. House of Kolor, DuPont, Basf, PPG etc all have basecoat paint lines geared to doing custom work.
If the painter has been painting in a production shop (ie. insurance) they are used to working with it. They also are used working on small areas. (like a motorcycle)
The newer high-solids type clears can be buffed many times, so for the long haul, it will be glossier.
There really is no reason to use single stage on a bike. You can get better results with a base-clear setup. The fact is, there are no new cars that I'm aware of that use single stage.
Plus, it's way easier to do your pinstripes or two tones under the clear so you don't end up with paint ridges.
(Btw, My bike has no tape stripes, they were all done in base, under the clear)

Did my own paint job years ago and it held up well. Did the base, then shot clear with blue pearl, and then applied the red panels and black striping. Came back with a few more coats of clear after that. Time to repaint again though due to some chips and a dent I put in the tank after a slight get off in the Hill Country. The bars got pushed into the tank and caused the dent. I'll probably go with the same paint scheme again.

[cloudbreakmd]

cloudbreakmd the paint looks good on the yamaha:-D

Thank you. Horrible seat though huh? I will be painting the 550L I just picked up as soon as I have it running right.