Powder coat or spray paint frame

[fasterzx]

Just looking for thoughts from people who have tried both powder coating vs painting a frame. I have a 1979 GS1000 S I am restoring . It won't be a concourse restoration but rather keep it as stock as possible and ride it occasionally . I have never had any powder coating done so have no experience with that. The painter who did the body work said he prefers paint as it's glossier but said the powder coat is really tough. I worry about all the threaded holes with powder coat. Would powder coating decrease the value ?

[Nessism]

One challenge with powder coat is preserving the vin label sticker. If that gets wiped out by the paint process, that could decrease value. Otherwise, I don't think what kind of paint will matter much.

Personally, when restoring a frame, I strip the paint chemically, then follow up with sandblasting. For paint, two part epoxy primer, then a single pack urethane black top coat. If you have time, check out my KZ750 restoration thread, linked in my signature, for some photos.

BTW, I restored two different S's. Great bikes. Good luck with your project.

[1978GS750E]

I've had 2 frames powder coated and I will never paint another one! Paint is easier to fix if you get any chips, but the powder coat doesn't chip as easily! Both of my frames came out a lot glossier than the painted one, but that may depend on what paint is used. And yes, you can forget about the frame label, it will not withstand the heat of powder coating. Of course, paint is a lot cheaper! And yes, you probably will have to clean the powder coat out of the threads, a tap works wonders!

[ensure]

I have gone both options on separate restorations in the past.
On my gsx1100 i got the frame, swingarm and multiple brackets powder coated for approx $300 (circa 2013).
In 2014 i restored gsx750 and thought i would have a go painting instead as i mistakenly thought $300 was a bit expensive and i had time on my side. Once i had bought paint stripper, wire brushes, sand paper, rust retardant, cans of undercoat, base coat and 2K clear coat i had spent around $230 anyway and then there was the time and effort involved.

The finished frame came out really well and has lasted a decade so not much difference in the quality but from a cost point of view i would not do it again for a total rebuild.

[GregT]

I won't use powdercoat now. I've seen too many frames where water has got under the powdercoat and rusted the base steel. Powdercoat is strong therefore when it cracks it lifts off slightly but stays apparently intact. This allows water to penetrate and spread the damage.
A good 2 pack epoxy over a gritblasted surface lasts very well. I have access to a local stove enameller which is the best finish of the lot.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I had my '79 GS1000E frame, swingarm, stands, fork clamps, wheels, rotor centers, battery holder, footpegs, even the peg bolts and some engine bolts/various hardware powder coated. That was 24 years ago. Not a single problem. Of course, my bike is garaged and always covered with fleece blankets that help keep it looking nice.
I had no problems with the PC getting in threaded areas or anywhere else. They're supposed to know their job but I personally inspected my parts before they PC'd everything. I chose their gloss black which looked very similar to the factory paint. The semi-gloss seemed to have an almost brownish hue to it. I don't know about other shops or how/if powder coat colors have changed a little?
After 10's of thousands of miles the bike still looks great. I've got some very small chips near the front down tubes and underneath, but they've been harmless and overall the finish is fine.
I put literally $10,000+ into a complete upgrade of the bike in 1999. I followed an article in Motorcyclist Magazine, November, 1981 I think, where they made a '78 GS1000E project bike. Their goal was to eliminate every "weakness" on the bike and make it even more reliable and powerful. I basically made the upgrades they suggested and added quite a few of my own touches. When I ordered everything the dealer and Vance and Hines both asked why I would spend so much on an already 20 year old bike and not buy something else? I just said I know I'll have a great bike in the end, something I can work on myself, something that attracts attention at rides and be happy owning. I still remember telling the owner at the Suzuki dealer, Cole Brothers in North Hollywood, (for those in southern Calif')"I intend to own the bike another 20 years" and he actually said, "you won't own that bike 20 years from now", with a serious face.
Well, he was right. I've owned it another 24 years since! Never regreted a dollar I spent, especially the PC.

[Kiwi Canuck]

I have restored several Suzuki Motorcycles including (2) GS1000S's and I used VHT Roll Bar and Chassis Paint (Gloss SP670) on the frames, the finish was about as close to the stock paint as I could get. I was able to sand down an area that was rusted or damaged and do a blend with the new paint and it was virtually impossible to tell from the OEM paint.

https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint

I have had many parts powder coated as well, but prefer to use paint on the frame because of the VIN label as Ed mentioned.

If you have any questions related to your restoration just ask, there are a few of us on GS Resources that have done a few of these bikes.

[Rob S.]

How do you decide which one to ride?

Anyone know if the 2016 Sportster "SuperLow" came with a powder coated frame? I bottomed that thing out on a speed bump once (actually many times) and I was sure there would be a mark. The frame tubes were indeed dented, but the finish looked perfect.

[trevor]

I have only had rims powder coated...and that's not true that you can't get a "glossy" finish. The last rims I had done last year there was SO many colour and finish options.

[Cipher]

Your paint lasted 40 ish yrs. Do a cost benefit analysis and then go buy the paint. properly done it will outlive you and after that what do you care?