GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[Gofastparts4u]

When I put '05 Gixxer 600 Turn Signals on my GS1100ES, my flasher relay wouldn't work either. I swapped in an electronic flasher and it works fine now, well for the most part.

The flashing is a little intermittent at an idle, but anything over idle, they work as they should. That little problem is most likely due to my malfunctioning rectifier tho...

[80GS1000]

So there's two parts (#20 and #21) that appear to control the turn signals. Which one (or both?) would get replaced with the electronic flasher or automotive flasher? Thanks!

[renobruce]

Replace #20. That's the flasher. The other is the self-cancelling computer. And now that you mention it, since you are not using the stock speedo, your self-canceller won't work anymore. So you will have to manual-cancel the sigs anyway. You might be able to leave it hooked up though... it just won't do it's job. Replace the flasher and see what happens.

[80GS1000]

Replace #20. That's the flasher. The other is the self-cancelling computer. And now that you mention it, since you are not using the stock speedo, your self-canceller won't work anymore. So you will have to manual-cancel the sigs anyway. You might be able to leave it hooked up though... it just won't do it's job. Replace the flasher and see what happens.

Thanks for the help Bruce. The turn signal relay is part #8 in the lower right corner of the wiring diagram. There are three wires coming out of it - orange/green, brown, and light blue. Do you know what each wire does, and how do you wire up an automotive or electronic flasher to the harness using these wires? I assume one wire is for positive, one for the negative/ground, and the other for the switch on the handlebars. Following the diagram, it looks like light blue goes to the blinker switch on the handlebars, but the polarity of the others is a mystery.

[renobruce]

The flasher should just unplug, and then plug in the automotive one. No wiring needed. I'm not sure if your bike is the same as my '78, but here is a pic. The round silver gizmo is the automotive flasher.



3 bucks at the parts store. Buy the heavy-duty one. I would try that first as that may be all you need to do. If that doesn't work, here's the thread I posted when I re-wired my set-up. Let me know your results, and let me know if I can help further.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=90299

[renobruce]

I need to clean up that starter relay....looks kinda yucky

[80GS1000]

Turns out the flasher unit on the 80 GS1000E is a 3 prong unit, so I picked up an electronic 3 prong flasher unit of the same from Autozone. Doesn't work, with it plugged in the turn signal lights won't even turn on, much less flash. :?

But they do flash with the stock gauges plugged in, so I might make a bracket for the idiot lights, the stock tach (which works better than the electronic Acewell one) and the Acewell speedo out of some aluminum plate. Then we'd be back to stock blinker circuitry and the blinkers will work, not to mention a superior functioning tach, gas gauge, and idiot lights.

[80GS1000]

Interesting afternoon in the garage. Learned how to rejet the main circuit today, and it turned out to be way easier than I thought, thanks to the GS1000 service manual and the carb cleaning and rebuild article.

Before this rejetting, the bike would start up and idle fine, but refuse to rev higher than 4500 RPM. Big backfires at 4500 RPM. Time to richen up the mains.

This is old hat to all the guys who've done this before, but all you have to do is take the carbs off the bike, drain the gas from the float bowls, take off the screws on the bottom of each carb that hold on the float bowl covers, then unscrew the main jet from the carb (I was afraid I wouldn't be able to spot it but it's the big brass one in the center of the float bowl), screw in a new main jet, then reassemble the float bowl. I used the Dynojet 170 mains, which were the recommended mains for use with K&N pods in the Dynojet directions.

Reinstalled the carbs on the head and adjusted the throttle cable, put the pods back on, primed the carbs (I like the "forcefeed" method of siphoning gas straight from a gas can into the fuel hose on the carbs till the floats say they're full), put the tank back on, and crossed my fingers.

Hit the starter button, started right up, no problem. Let it idle for a few minutes to warm up, and then grabbed the throttle.

It revved cleanly to redline in a heartbeat. No flat spots at all. Yah! \\/\\/ Sounds freakin' *M E A N* too - super throaty like the Cooley/Crosby GS1000s. :-D Only problem I can see is a bit of popping when letting off the throttle - hopefully it's an air leak as I have a set of o-rings and intake boots on order.

Getting super excited to ride this thing. \\/

[Mark M]

Only problem I can see is a bit of popping when letting off the throttle - hopefully it's an air leak as I have a set of o-rings and intake boots on order.

Congratulations, nothing like that feeling of getting an engine running right with jets you changed yourself. I bet your popping on trailing throttle is lean pilots, not an air leak. It will get worse once you are running and have the engine pulling fuel through on trailing throttle. On the plus side, going to the next size up pilot jets will eliminate all or most of it and it is not a destructive problem, merely a nuisance.

Note that you will need to re-check your mains after changing the pilots, as the lower circuits affect the higher ones. Also, don't forget to synch your carbs after tweaking the jetting.

Mark

[80GS1000]

Congratulations, nothing like that feeling of getting an engine running right with jets you changed yourself. I bet your popping on trailing throttle is lean pilots, not an air leak. It will get worse once you are running and have the engine pulling fuel through on trailing throttle. On the plus side, going to the next size up pilot jets will eliminate all or most of it and it is not a destructive problem, merely a nuisance.

Note that you will need to re-check your mains after changing the pilots, as the lower circuits affect the higher ones. Also, don't forget to synch your carbs after tweaking the jetting.

Mark

Thanks for the thoughts. Such a nice feeling to get it jetted yourself - I thought I was in for a visit to the local GS guru to get the jetting done.

You're right about the lean pilots - that's the next circuit that needs tweaking. I have the air screw turned way out to richen the mixture and get it to idle at about 1100 RPM. Turning the air screw in to the recommended 2-2.5 turns out results in a super lean condition - the idle goes to about 4000 RPM. It starts up immediately with just a tiny bit of choke and immediately idles at about 1100 RPM by just using the air screw to richen it up, any harm in leaving it be the way it is?

The popping turned out to be an air leak. I got a set of new carb rubbers/boots and o-rings from Bikebandit and installed them tonight. Wow, what a difference. No more popping when rolling off the throttle, and much, much crisper and faster throttle response from idle to redline. Those old carb rubbers and o-rings were probably about as old as the bike. :shock:

Other thing I noticed is the engine is much louder now that the carbs have been podded. Anyone else notice this? A guess would be that the airbox muffles the sound coming out of the intake portion of the head when the throttle and therefore the carbs are opened, and the pods just let the sound pass through? The sucking sound of the pods taking in air is pretty cool though, and the motor sounds FIERCE with a capital F.

I get the feeling it's gonna pull like a train once it's back on the road.

[renobruce]

Yes, the pods make 'em louder! \\/ Alot more throatier, and you can hear the air rushing in.

Without going back through 100 pages, what mods are on the engine now? Just the pods, pipe and jet kit? If those are the only mods, I would do some chop tests before you change the pilots (or anything else). Sounds like you my have fixed your lean condition fixing the leaks.

I've got a Colortune you can use while you're up here in July.

[80GS1000]

Yes, the pods make 'em louder! \\/ Alot more throatier, and you can hear the air rushing in.

Without going back through 100 pages, what mods are on the engine now? Just the pods, pipe and jet kit? If those are the only mods, I would do some chop tests before you change the pilots (or anything else). Sounds like you my have fixed your lean condition fixing the leaks.

I've got a Colortune you can use while you're up here in July.

Heheh, I guess I "talk" too much. Yeah, motor's stock except for the intake/exhaust mods of a pipe, pods, and stage 3 kit. It'll be interesting to see how it runs with a load on the engine. Thanks for the offer on the Colortune - how does it work?

[Mark M]

You're right about the lean pilots - that's the next circuit that needs tweaking. I have the air screw turned way out to richen the mixture and get it to idle at about 1100 RPM. Turning the air screw in to the recommended 2-2.5 turns out results in a super lean condition - the idle goes to about 4000 RPM. It starts up immediately with just a tiny bit of choke and immediately idles at about 1100 RPM by just using the air screw to richen it up, any harm in leaving it be the way it is?

The air screws are OK until you are about 3.5 turns out. At that point, you are maxxed out on that pilot jet and should jump to the next size. If you start without much choke and it idles OK, it should be fine. If there is one circuit to be lean on, it's the pilot, at least it won't wreck the engine.

BTW, you are going at it from the wrong direction. You should sort your pilot circuit first, then the needle, then the mains. This is because the lower circuits affect the higher ones and starting at the bottom stops you from chasing in circles, adjusting again and again to narrow it down.

Yes, pods are much louder than the airbox. In a good way, I always thought.:-D

Mark

[renobruce]

Thanks for the offer on the Colortune - how does it work?

It's a see-through spark plug. You can see the color of the burn, which allows you to fine-tune your pilot screws.

[80GS1000]

Alright-

Paging Johnnay and other folks using newer GSXR 600/750 rear wheels.

What's the measurement from the outside of the rear sprocket to the outside of the rear brake disc on your wheel? I'm measuring 8.25" with the 2006 GSXR 1000 rear wheel.

Last big issue/challenge with this build is chain alignment. The sprocket sticks out too far to the left by about 1/2", even with the cush drive rubbers shaved down 15 mm. Rather than hacking another 1/2" from the left side of the cush drive on the 6.0" 2006 GSXR 1000 wheel (and associated mods like new spacers etc), would it be easier to just use a 5.5" 2004/2005 GSXR 750 wheel? Would this bring the chain in any further by using the 5.5" wheel vs. the 6.0" wheel?